Cadiz and Jerez - Another Road Trip in Southern Spain
- Tony
- 12 hours ago
- 12 min read
February 2026
There is something about Spain that continues to draw us back for more. Perhaps it's the People, the culture, the food, the monuments, or the history. It's most likely a combination of all of them that makes visiting here so special.
We are constantly reminded that “Europe is a continent, not a country.” Your experience can vary widely depending on where you travel.
This is our second Road trip in Southern Spain and the Andalusia region this month, a five-day trip from our home in Alvor, Portugal, including an overnight stop in Sevilla, a few nights in Cadiz, and a day trip to Jerez, the home of Sherry wine.
Our plan was to enjoy the sights, culture, and food of the region, exploring Cadiz, one of the oldest cities in Spain, and visiting Jerez, the home of Sherry wine production. We were surprised to learn just before our trip that while in Cadiz, we would be in the middle of the country's most notable Carnaval celebrations (more on this later). What awaited us was truly spectacular and something that we were glad to stumble upon, which made this a very memorable trip.
Our first stop was an overnight in Seville, mainly to break up the drive from Alvor to Cadiz, but also because we really like spending time there. We stayed in the old center at the Mercer Plaza hotel in Plaza de San Francisco, which was nice but nothing spectacular, aside from its location. Driving into the old center is always a bit of a challenge with very narrow streets, several pedestrian-only areas, and dead ends. Google had us on track to the hotel, but just before we arrived, we were detoured by the local police, who, for some unknown reason, had the street we needed closed. The detour we had to take to get out was a challenge at best, four-point left turns on narrow streets, and a few points where the car cleared the stone walls of the buildings by only millimeters. There were points where our tires were on the narrow walkways in order to get through. Not wanting to experience that again, we called the hotel for alternate directions, and they sent a bellman to pick up our car, help us unload, and then take it to the nearby parking lot. That was a huge relief!
Other than that, our experience is always a treat in Sevilla, walking the neighborhoods, experiencing the local shops, and a few stops for Tapas, Pastries, and/or beverages along the way.
Lunch @ La Brunilda in the Old Town quarter of El Arenal. A small Tapas Bar and Restaurant recommended by friends. The food and service were very good, and the atmosphere was warm and cozy. Not your standard Spanish Tapas fare, but very creative dishes that were well-prepared and presented. We had the Tuna Tataki, Wok Noodles with Pork, and Duck Confit with Spiced Carrot Puree. These were all the "Tapas" portion (small size), but were just right for us to share
We chose Cadiz as our base along the southern coast. The ancient port city is considered by some to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in Western Europe. Founded in 1100 B.C. by the Phoenicians, and subsequently occupied by the Carthaginians, the Romans, the Visigoths, the Moors, and eventually came under Spanish rule following the crusades. Its port was chosen by Columbus as the point of departure for his second voyage to the New World.
Our time here was spent mostly in the old town, wandering through the historic streets and alleys that are filled with Tapas bars, restaurants, shops, apartments, and plazas. You will discover crowds here, especially in the evening, but of locals, who are out at the markets or the tapas bars around town, enjoying quality time with friends. Turn down just about any street here to discover a mix of historic architecture along the narrow streets of the old city. We particularly liked Barrio del Pópulo, the city's oldest district, a labyrinth of 13th-century streets, and the lively fishing district of La Viña, for its vibrant tapas scene and traditional houses. Stop at Tapas bars filled with locals for a plate (or paper cone) of pescaíto frito (little fried fish), or try the Tortilla de Camarones (very small shrimps fried in a potato pancake). Both are simply delicious.
We stayed at the Boutique Hotel Casa Canovas in a quieter part of the old city, with easy on-foot access to all areas. It turned out to be a great base for an escape from the bustle of the vibrant nightlife. The hotel is small, only ten rooms, but well-maintained and decorated with a friendly staff ready to help you navigate the city. You can get to the hotel by car, navigate easily through a few old-town streets, unload your belongings, and then take a short drive to the underground public parking nearby.
We visited the 18th-century Cádiz Cathedral, a mix of Baroque and neoclassical architectural styles. I climbed the seemingly endless stone pathway up to the top of the iconic landmark, the Torre de Poniente (Clock Tower), for panoramic views of the city and coastline.
Strolling along the Cadiz seafront, from La Caleta to the Campo del Sur, reminded us of the Malecón in Havana, with broad boardwalks along the water where locals and visitors alike strolled casually under the sun. Between the Castillo de San Sebastian and the Castillo de Santa Catalina sits a stretch of sandy beach, Playa de La Caleta. The boardwalk extends along the western perimeter of the old city, passing by monuments and parks along the way.
Our arrival day was spent exploring the old town and enjoying the quiet but active streets. When we asked the hotel staff what to do and where to go, they cautioned us to make meal reservations during our visit because of the Carnaval activities, as some of the most popular places might already be booked. We also asked about the best places in the city to experience Carnaval, and were told "everywhere." We knew that it was the last few days of Carnaval in the city, but as clueless tourists, we had no idea what we were about to experience. In the end, it was a fantastic experience that we were happy to be a part of. Part Mardi Gras of New Orleans and part Fallas of Valencia, a cultural and exuberant two days that left us with great memories.
Carnaval de Cadiz is the city’s most important festival and draws thousands of visitors who participate in the festivities. Most dressed in elaborate costumes, and many participated in the performances and competition. The entire population heads to the streets day and night, to partake in the fun, the laughter, and the partying among the choral groups, the satirical ‘chirigotas’ and the ‘comparsas’, who parody and criticize the year’s events.
The Tapas Bars and restaurants spill into the ancient streets, providing the fuel necessary for the revelers. The streets are crowded but manageable, littered with confetti and streamers showered on the performers. A non-stop celebration from noon to late in the evening with music and performances on stage at most of the plazas.
The ‘comparsas’ (performing groups), made up of local groups that have rehearsed and planned their costumes and performances throughout the year, roamed the narrow streets of the old center either on the "floats" pulled by a tractor or on foot, stopping to proclaim their satirical message through song. The performances were passionate and, I assume, humorous. If I could only understand the language enough to learn what they were communicating in their songs. The locals seemed to appreciate the messages.
In the few moments of quiet in the morning, we visited the Mercado Central de Abastos, the city's oldest market, to experience local culture and sample some of the locals' favorite foods prepared in the small stalls along the perimeter. Plenty of fresh seafood and local produce vendors in the market offer locals a fantastic selection of seasonal products. Don't miss the traditional pescaíto frito (fried fish) and the Chicharrones.
Lunch on our first day at On Egin near Plaza de San Juan de Dios. The restaurant specializes in dishes from the North of Spain and reminded us of our time spent in the Basque Country. We tried the Scallops (Zamburiñas), Calamares Fritos, and White Asparagus, all of which were fantastic. Prices are moderate but appropriate for the quality received.
Of course we found Tacos! They are always on our radar. TKO Tacos was a great find, with a wide variety of authentic, well-prepared tacos. Casual counter service and a reasonably priced menu.
A short drive from Cadiz, we ventured out to Jerez for a day trip to the Sherry capital. Its old quarter surrounds the Alcázar de Jerez, a Moorish fortress founded in the 11th century. We visited on a Sunday, so we were unable to visit some of the places we would have liked to see, such as the Alcázar, The González Byass (Tio Pepe) Bodega, and the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, a famed riding school with horse shows and a carriage museum. Guess we will have to return to experience those.
The city is also known for flamenco music and is very popular for its sherry production, in the heart of the Sherry Triangle. We explored the streets around the Alcázar, the Cathedral, the old quarter around the Plaza del Arenal, the Iglesia de San Miguel, and the beautiful Pedestrian street of Calle Larga.
We stopped at the Jerez Cathedral: A stunning 17th-century blend of Gothic, Baroque, and Neoclassical styles, built over an old Mosque. The imposing tower is about the only visible remnant of the old Mosque, which was converted into a bell tower.
Despite not being able to visit any of the Sherry Bodegas, we did manage to find a local spot to sample some of the local product. It was fun sitting amongst the locals who were stopping by for a Copa and a snack, presumably after church. Our tasting confirmed my suspicion that I am not a fan of Sherry for drinking, but it makes a great cooking wine.
We really enjoyed our time in Cadiz and Jerez and would definitely return for another visit. I am curious to see what Cadiz is like outside of the Carnaval celebrations, to visit some of the historic Sherry Bodegas, and to experience some of the other nearby locations noted in the "day trips from Cadiz" below.
Our Itinerary - Road Trip to Jerez and Cadiz – Feb 19-23, 2026
Day 1: Drive to Sevilla (Stay 1 night) Arrival, tapas
Alvor to Seville (Approx. 2.5 hours driving, plus stops)
Sights Along the Way:
Ayamonte – LPA The Culinary Bar – highly recommended restaurant
Huelva: A Spanish port city with historical landmarks like the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Cinta chapel and the Huelva Museum, which has a notable archaeological collection.
Archaeological Ensemble of Italica: Just before Seville, explore the well-preserved ancient Roman city with its impressive theatre, a filming location for Game of Thrones.
Arrival and afternoon: Check in to the hotel and drop off bags. Take a walk to the city center.
Reservation @ BRUNILDA TAPAS. 9-minute walk from Mercer Plaza
Evening tapas crawl: explore the streets near the center.
El Librero Tapas Y Quesos: Serves traditional tapas and cheeses in a cozy atmosphere.
Las Teresas: Classic tapas bar in the Jewish Quarter (Barrio Santa Cruz).
Ovejas Negras (K&J)
Bodeguita Romero: Known for its pringa sandwiches.
La Brunilda – advance reservation needed (K&J)
Burger Food Porn (Tom) https://burgerfoodporn.com/
Top Restaurants in Seville:
Abantal: A highly-rated fine dining restaurant offering a tasting menu with creative dishes like duck ravioli and red tuna.
Restaurante Az-Zait: Known for its Mediterranean cuisine and dishes such as suckling pig and truffle, and foie gras terrine.
Ispal Restaurante: Offers a quality Spanish tasting menu and is recognized by the Michelin Guide for its excellent cuisine.
Where to stay:
✔Mercer Plaza Sevilla: A beautiful historic building converted into a 5-star hotel in the city center, noted for its excellent service and rooftop terrace.
Day 2: Drive from Sevilla to Cadiz (Stay 3 nights) Explore Cadiz! Cadiz is the oldest city in Spain, it's also one of the oldest cities in all of western Europe?
Sevilla to Cadiz (Approx. 1.5 hours driving) The drive to Cadiz is quick, providing ample time to settle in and begin exploring Spain's oldest continuously inhabited city.
Arrive in Cadiz: Check into your hotel.
Where to stay: Luxury Hotels in Cadiz (3 Nights):
✔Boutique Hotel Casa Cánovas: Unique accommodation of only ten rooms in the heart of Cádiz's historic center. An unbeatable location, an experience that blends elegance, history, and comfort. - Park in front of the hotel for check-in, then use the nearby public parking for overnight
Parador de Cádiz: Widely regarded as the best luxury hotel in the city, it features modern architecture, a spa, pools, and rooms with stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean and La Caleta beach.
Áurea Casa Palacio Sagasta: A beautifully restored classic building in the heart of the old town, offering a cozy, luxurious boutique experience within walking distance of attractions.
Hipotels Sherry Park (Jerez): a 4-star hotel located in one of the quietest and most central areas of Jerez de la Frontera.
Things to Do & See in Cadiz
Explore the Old Town Neighborhoods: Wander through the narrow, winding streets of the ancient
Barrio del Pópulo Wander through the city's oldest district, a labyrinth of 13th-century lanes. (the oldest quarter) and the lively fishing district of La Viña, known for its vibrant tapas scene and traditional houses.
Plaza de San Juan de Dios: A central, lively square filled with cafés and historic buildings.
Castillo de San Sebastián & Castillo de Santa Catalina: Historic sea fortresses offering great views and, in the case of Santa Catalina, art exhibits.
Visit the Cádiz Cathedral Visit the 18th-century masterpiece with its golden dome. Admire the mix of Baroque and neoclassical architectural styles of this iconic landmark and climb the Torre de Poniente (Clock Tower) for panoramic views of the city and coastline.
See the Roman Theatre: Step back in time at this ancient Roman theatre, dating back to 70 BC, which is one of the oldest Roman theatres and best-preserved in Spain and is free to enter.
Climb the Torre Tavira: As the highest point in the old town, this watchtower offers superb 360-degree views and houses a unique Camera Obscura, which projects live, moving images of the city onto a concave screen.
Relax at La Caleta Beach: This picturesque beach, nestled between two historic castles (Castillo de Santa Catalina and Castillo de San Sebastián), is the heart of the old town and a perfect spot to watch the sunset.
Stroll through Parque Genovés: Enjoy a tranquil escape in the city's main botanical garden, featuring exotic plant species, a grotto, and a large waterfall.
Savor Local Cuisine at Mercado Central de Abastos: Visit the city's oldest market to experience the local culture, sample fresh seafood and local produce at the various food stalls, and enjoy a plate of traditional pescaíto frito (fried fish).
Yacimiento Arqueológico Gadir: View the remains of a Phoenician settlement preserved beneath modern streets
Top Restaurants in Cadiz:
La Candela: A popular spot in the Old Town known for its local flavor and atmosphere.
El Faro de Cádiz: An acclaimed restaurant in the La Viña district, celebrated for its delicious seafood.
Taberna Casa Manteca: A historic and atmospheric spot in the La Viña neighborhood, perfect for experiencing traditional local tapas.
Day 3: Explore Cadiz
It’s Carnival time in Cadiz: Spend time viewing activities around the city if available or consider one of the day trips from Cadiz
Day 4: Day Trip to Jerez de la Frontera (Approx. 30 minutes driving from Cadiz)
Drive or train: A 35-minute train ride away, this city is world-famous for flamenco, horsemanship, and sherry.
Sights and Activities:
Stroll around the Plaza del Arenal and the nearby Iglesia de San Miguel in the historic city center. Pedestrian street of Calle Larga
Alcázar of Jerez: Explore this Almohad-era fortress, a key historical monument in the city center. An 11th-century Almohad fortress. Highlights include the original mosque (converted into a chapel), Arab baths,
Jerez Cathedral: A stunning 17th century blend of Gothic, Baroque, and Neoclassical styles, built over an old Mosque. It houses Zurbarán’s painting La Virgen Niña and offers a bell tower climb for panoramic views.
Sherry Bodega Tour: A visit is incomplete without a tour and tasting at a traditional sherry winery (bodega) to learn about the production process of the famous Jerez wine.
Some options include Bodegas Fundador, Bodegas Lustau, or Bodegas Álvaro Domecq. Bodegas Lustau: Highly recommended for connoisseurs; their tours often include a wider variety of tastings, including their exceptional vermouth.
González Byass (Tio Pepe) In the heart of Jerez de la Frontera, González Byass traces its origins to 1835, when Manuel María González began crafting sherry in the historic Barrio de San Mateo. Today, the estate spans a labyrinth of 19th-century bodegas—including La Concha, designed for Queen Isabel II—and houses one of Europe’s oldest working cooperages. Explore its cathedral-like cellars aging Amontillado and Pedro Ximénez beneath blackened beams, stroll through vine-covered courtyards, and sample Tío Pepe from casks marked with royal signatures.
Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art: Witness the famous equestrian shows that showcase the region's deep connection to horses.
Mercado Central de Abastos:
Day 5: Drive home stop in Sevilla for lunch and journey to Alvor
Day Trips from Cadiz
Bolonia Beach: Head to the coast near Tarifa to explore the remarkably well-preserved Roman city ruins of Baelo Claudia right on the beachfront. Afterwards, relax on the stunning Bolonia Beach and climb its famous natural dune.
El Puerto de Santa María: Just a short ferry ride or drive away, this charming town offers more wineries (like Bodegas Osborne), beautiful beaches like Valdelagrana, and excellent seafood restaurants.
Vejer de la Frontera: Rent a car to visit this stunning "pueblo blanco" (white village) perched on a hilltop.
Tarifa: Continue south to the southernmost point of continental Europe, known for its medieval old town and kite-surfing beaches.
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