Bordeaux - So much more than great wine, the Paris of Southwest France
- Tony
- 8 hours ago
- 16 min read
June 2026
Bordeaux has an image problem, not a bad one, but... Yes, it's the undisputed wine capital of the world, which most people visit for its world-class wine destinations. But this dynamic port city in southwestern France offers so much more than its famed wine Chateau's. Come for the wine but stay for the culture and beauty
Located along the crescent-shaped curves of the Garonne River, the capital of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, nicknamed “La Perle d'Aquitaine” (The Pearl of Aquitaine), “La Belle Endormie” (Sleeping Beauty), and, at times, “the Paris of Southwest France.” The city gracefully blends rich 18th-century classical architecture with the charm of narrow Medieval streets. Beyond its classical facade, Bordeaux is a thriving hub for European aerospace and tech sectors, and its 130,000 university students fuel a trendy lifestyle complete with waterfront markets, cafes, and museums.
Our home base for the week was the Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes, located north of the historic center in the Chartrons district. Built within the facade of a 19th-century landmark that formerly housed the wine cellars of Maison Calvet. Within the preserved historic facade, the building is modern in construction, with its interior designed by Philippe Starck. Located in a quiet residential/commercial area of the city, only a 10-minute walk to the waterfront and the city's fantastic tram system that gets you to the historic center in less than 10 minutes. The hotel earns its five-star rating through its design and service, but is far less expensive than comparable accommodations in the historic center. Highly recommended.
A late start to our first day, following a very late arrival in Bordeaux, allowed us to relax and enjoy a leisurely pace. Our only scheduled activity for the day was an evening food tour in the historic center.
As we weaved our way through the mostly pedestrian streets, we learned a little about local cultures, history, and of course sampled some of the region's food and wine, the best Canelés of Bordeaux at La Toque Cuivrée, Bordeaux wine, and the region's famous duck at Canard. The restaurant only serves duck, so we sampled Magret de Canard (Duck Breast), Confit de Canard (Duck Confit), and, of course, Frites de Canard (French Fries cooked in duck fat).
Over several days, we spent time wandering through the Historic center. The city earns its unofficial title of the Paris of the Southwest with over 360 registered historic monuments, placing it second only to Paris for the number of listed sites in France. Its remarkably well-preserved 18th-century urban design earned the entire historic center UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Grand churches, fountains, sculptures, green spaces, and street-side cafes lend charm to the numerous pedestrian streets that wind through the center.
The building facades in the historic center were once dark and dreary due to the exhaust from the local distilleries. In recent years, following the closure of the last distillery, the city has pushed to clean them and restore the stone to its original state. While a few of the dark stone facades can still be found, the results have returned the city's historic buildings back to their original grandeur.
Some of the city's iconic landmarks include the Place de la Bourse, the towering Basilique Saint-Michel, Grosse Cloche, Grand-Théâtre, Bourse Maritime (Maritime trade building), Miroir d’eau (Water Mirror), and Europe's longest pedestrian shopping street, the Rue Sainte-Catherine.
Canelés of Bordeaux, the city's signature sweet, have a caramelized exterior with a soft, custard like heart with rum and vanilla.
Cheeses of France
Incredible Chocolates at Alain Ducasse
Opéra National de Bordeaux - Grand-Théâtre
The riverfront is equally beautiful. The 18th-century buildings were designed to present the city as a wealthy and powerful trading center when viewed from the water, and the more modern additions of the riverfront promenade, Miroir d’eau (Water Mirror), green spaces, waterfront markets, cafes, and museums have made the area a fantastic place to wander, go for a bike ride or a run, or just relax in the gardens as the locals do.
The famous Miroir d’eau (Water Mirror), a massive reflecting pool/fountain between the river and the Place de la Bourse
The Chartrons district near our hotel runs from the tranquil Jardin Public with its lake and arboretum, to the bohemian Place du Marché Chartrons and Rue Notre Dame with its cafes, art, and antiques, and down to the riverside promenade with its shops, museums, and dining.
We stopped for a very French quiche-and-salad lunch at La vie en rose in the Place du Marché Chartrons, visited the Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons de Bordeaux, and a few shops in the district and along rue Notre Dame.
A full-day touring the right bank region of Saint-Émilion today.
The medieval village of Saint-Émilion stands on a hillside overlooking the region, with preserved architecture and many wine shops and restaurants to keep the tourists occupied. We stopped for a nice lunch at La Table 38
The two best-known wine regions in Bordeaux are the Right Bank and the Left Bank of the Garonne River. Today, our visit focused on the Right Bank.
St. Emilion is the only region on the Right Bank to classify wines, with four classification levels updated every 10 years: Premier Grand Cru Classé A (2 Properties) & Premier Grand Cru Classé B (12 Properties), Grand Cru Classé (71 Properties), and Grand Cru. There was controversy in the 2022 classifications as several famous and previous “A” properties opted out of classification for reasons unknown. The other Right Bank region of Pomerol has no official classification, yet Chateau Petrus is considered to rank with the 1st growths in Bordeaux.
The Bordeaux Right Bank is renowned for red blends dominated by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. These wines are typically lush, fruit-forward, and softer on the palate compared to Left Bank wines, owing to the region's clay and limestone soils. You may also find minor uses of Petit Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, and Malbec.
Many of the top classified Chateaus do not host tastings or tours, so the best we could do today was Grand Cru Classé, which wasn't bad at all. Our first stop was Château Fleur Cardinale, a modern Grand Cru Classé château, then on to the 17th-century Château Bellevue Grand Cru Classé, and the Biodynamic Grand Cru Château de la Dauphine.
Just south of the historic center, we found the city's main public market, Marche des Capucins. The area is a bit gritty with fewer tourists, but very diverse, as many immigrants live in this part of the city.
The Market is large, with a wide selection of fresh produce, cheeses, meats, and seafood, plus a few food stalls. A feast for the eyes and the stomach.
One of our lunch stops was Lunch at Melodie, located on a narrow street just behind Place de la Bourse. A small family-run restaurant with an old-world feel, featuring classic, simplistic French cuisine at affordable prices. The set three-course menu is only €25 at lunch. We started with Green Asparagus & Saint-Nectarine cheese with Bacon, our mains were the Salmon filet & Slow-cooked Pork Lion, and for dessert the Basque Cheesecake & Coffee Tartlet. All were very well prepared and a great value.
Today, we head to the Left Bank along the legendary Route des Châteaux. The route encompasses several world-famous appellations, each home to iconic wine estates from the 1855 classification. Some of my favorite French wines come from this area, although most are well beyond my price range.
The classification system for the left bank Haut-Médoc is the oldest: the 1855 Classification of Châteaux (ordered by Napoleon III to select the best Bordeaux wines for the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris). The classification levels range from 1st Growth (Premier Cru) to 5th Growth (62 wines). The 1st growths are: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion (in Graves), and Château Mouton Rothschild. Sub-appellations include: Margaux, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Julien, Listrac, and Moulis.“Super Seconds”- are those 2nd Growths of Haut Medoc that are close to being 1st Growths. Example: Léoville Las Cases. All other Left Bank wines are unclassified or Cru Bourgeois (Medoc) –Châteaux that are examined and certified for quality. It's all very confusing but worth exploring.
The wines of Bordeaux’s Left Bank are celebrated for their structured, age-worthy, and Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blends. Thanks to the region's warm, well-draining gravel soils, this grape achieves exceptional structure, robust tannins, and complex dark-fruit characteristics. The primary varietal, Cabernet Sauvignon, the undisputed king of the Left Bank, typically makes up 60% to 85% of the blend. It provides the wine’s powerful structure, firm tannins, and signature aromas of blackcurrant, cassis, cedar, and graphite. Supporting/Blending Varietals of Merlot: The second most prominent grape. Blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to soften its harsh tannins, adding plushness, roundness, and ripe red berry flavors. Petit Verdot is used in smaller quantities (the "salt and pepper" of the blend). This late-ripening grape contributes deep color, firm tannins, and spicy or floral notes (like violet), and Cabernet Franc: Used sparingly to add aromatic complexity, herbaceousness, and a touch of savory eleganc
Again no top classifications for today's tour although the wines tasted today were very good. Both tastings were in the Margeaux area at the modern Chateau Dauzac and the historic Chateau Angludet.
Although the top classified Chateaux on the Left Bank in general do not welcome visitors for tastings, the estates along the Route des Châteaux are worth stopping at for a peek into the life of a Grand Chateau. These photos are of Château Margaux and Château Palmer in Margaux
Sunday morning at the Marche Bio des Quais de Bordeaux, a Sunday and Thursday only farmers market along the riverside promenade. Filled with locals and tourists selecting the finest seasonal produce, oysters, bread, cheese, wine, and prepared foods. There's nothing like a European farmers market for some of the best of the area.
In the North of the city, near the Marina and boat yards, sits the imposing curved aluminum & glass building of La Cité du Vin, a high-tech, interactive wine museum complete with displays & tastings, all you ever wanted to know about the Bordeaux wine region, history, and its wines. The building is visible throughout the city and is often referred to by locals as the Golden snail, but its design is based on a wine decanter. It's a great place for those seeking knowledge or just a quick touch-up on Bordeaux wine and history. The tram stops close to the entrance.
If you are in this part of town, don't miss Les Halles Bacalan, across the street from La Cité du Vin. Here you will find several street food-style food stalls with an amazing selection of prepared foods.
We were searching for an activity that would take us out on the river so we could take in the city's views from that perspective. If you want a quick tour up and across the river, the city runs a ferry boat that stops along the riverfront promenade at Les Hangars/Cours du Médoc and crisscrosses the river up to Stalingrad. This is an inexpensive option; you can use your same valid ticket from the Tram and bus system.
On our last night in Bordeaux, we wanted to see the city lights at night from the river, so we elected to take the dinner cruise with Les Bateaux Bordelais. We were not expecting much from the meal itself on a tourist boat, but in true French style, the food was very good, and the views along the river were great.
Bordeaux - So much more than great wine, the Paris of Southwest France. The city, is a real gem, worth spending time getting to know its history and exploring all it has to offer. We initially wanted to spend a few nights in the city, and a few in the wine region, but as we booked short-term, finding an available/affordable option in wine country was not in the cards. I'm happy that we spent more time in the city, getting to know not only the historic center but also some areas off the main tourist paths.
When we return, doing a bit more research on available visits to some of the top Chateaux will give us an option to be more selective of where we visit. The Chateaux that we did visit were great, a good first-time introduction to the regions, but for future visits, the Grand Chateaux are intriguing, not just for the wine but for the estates as well.
Our Itinerary
Itinerary Bordeaux June 1-8, 2026
June 1, Monday
• Easy Jet EJU1872 - dep Faro @ 21:45, Arr Bordeaux 00:40
• Uber from Airport to Hotel
• Overnight in Bordeaux @ Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes
June 2, Tuesday
• Chartrons Wine Heritage & Gastronomy- (Self-guided Walking tour)
o 4e Vague Café (4th Wave Café) 15-minute walk from the hotel
o Morning: Immerse yourself in local life at the lively Marché des Capucins. Stand at a zinc counter to slash open fresh Cap Ferret oysters, pairing them with spicy crépinette sausages and a chilled glass of Entre-Deux-Mers white wine. (Best visited on Weekends but open daily)
o Afternoon: Walk north into the historic maritime quarter of Les Chartrons. Visit the Musée du Vin et du Négoce to explore 18th-century barrel cellars. Follow this with an interactive sensory journey through global wine cultures at the ultra-modern Cité du Vin.
• Evening: 5:30 PM - Do Eat Better Experience Bordeaux Food Tour – 3,5 hours. (Does not include either Marché des Capucins or Les Chartrons). Step off the beaten path and dive into the heart of Bordeaux’s rich culinary culture. You’ll savor the best of southwestern France through a curated tasting experience and learn insightful stories and food history shared by passionate guides. From home-cooked specialties passed down through generations to the finest artisanal cheeses, such as creamy Camembert and aged Comté, this tour is your gateway to the region's authentic flavors. Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or a curious traveler, our tour blends the charm of Bordeaux with the soul of its cuisine. https://doeatbetterexperience.com/france-food-tour/what-to-do-in-bordeaux/bordeaux-food-tour/
• Overnight in Bordeaux
June 3, Wednesday
• Architectural Foundations of the City Center (Self-Guided walking tour)
o Morning: Step into the 18th century with a guided walking tour starting at the Place de la Bourse. Photograph the Miroir d'eau reflection pool before entering the Grand Théâtre, an architectural masterpiece that inspired the Paris Opera.
o Afternoon: Wander through the narrow medieval alleys of the Saint-Pierre district. Stop beneath the stone arches of the Porte Cailhau, a defensive gate dating back to 1494. Grab a classic canelé pastry from a local bakery. (Pass by the famous “Grosse Cloche” with a coffee and canelé stop)
• Evening: 4:05 pm Food tour in Chartrons: the wine district of Bordeaux. https://www.visiter-bordeaux.com/en/discovering-bordeaux/food-tour-chartrons-wine-district-bordeaux.html
• Overnight in Bordeaux
June 4, Thursday
• SAINT EMILION FULL-DAY WINE TOUR (8 hours) - departure at 9:30 am
o Immerse yourself in the splendor of the Bordeaux vineyards and the charm of the AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru wine region. This small-group tour promises a journey through scenic vineyards, esteemed Chateau Wineries, and to savor the rich, Merlot-based red wines of the prestigious Saint-Émilion wine region. Marvel at Saint-Émilion, a UNESCO World Heritage site, with its medieval architecture, the remarkable monolithic church, and the mysterious underground catacombs. Included: Visit and wine tasting in 3 Châteaux, All Wine tasting fees, Short walking tour of St. Emilion village, English-speaking driver & guide, Expert in Bordeaux wines, Travel in a modern, comfortable & fully equipped minivan
• Evening: Embark on an authentic bar à vin crawl. Sip indigenous whites and robust Left Bank reds paired with local AOC cheeses at the historic Bar à Vin du CIVB.
o École du Vin de Bordeaux– Elegant wine school subsidized by the government, so prices are good. Great for wine tasting. High-quality wine at a low cost
• Overnight in Bordeaux
June 5, Friday
• Open
• Markets
o Marché des Capucins – farmers market open until 2 pm https://maps.app.goo.gl/w6DsSt1BRFjX66S78
o Overnight in Bordeaux
June 6, Saturday
• MÉDOC HALF-DAY WINE TOUR (4 hours) - departure at 9 am
o Travel through the lush vineyards of the Médoc region, setting the stage for an unforgettable wine-tasting adventure along the scenic Castle Road (Route des Châteaux), winding through the Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc, and the celebrated Margaux appellations, home to some of Bordeaux's most prestigious châteaux, offering a feast for the eyes and the palate. The first stop is a selected Médoc winery, where you will enjoy a detailed guided tour led by an expert. Dive into the history and techniques of winemaking while tasting some of their finest wines. Learn about the famous Bordeaux blend, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, and explore the vineyard's unique approach to viticulture and vinification. Our journey continues to another winery, showcasing the diversity of the Médoc region. We carefully balance our tours to include both a prestigious Classified Growth Château and a charming boutique winery, providing a well-rounded experience of the Médoc's wine culture. In the Margaux appellation, indulge in wines renowned for their aromatic and elegant profiles, a result of the region's gravel-rich soils. The Haut-Médoc, with its varied terroirs, presents a spectrum of flavors and textures that reflects the diversity of its vineyards. Time permitting, we may stop for a photo session at the iconic Château Margaux. Included: Visit & wine tasting in 2 classified Châteaux, All tasting fees included, Tour conducted in English, Driver/Guide, Expert in Bordeaux wines, Travel in premium, spacious minivans, Limited to 8 persons per group
• 3:00 PM Guided tour of the Grand Théâtre
• Evening: Open
• Overnight in Bordeaux
June 7, Sunday
• Morning: Markets
o Les Halles Bacalan – Large market of foods https://maps.app.goo.gl/onzeVdSqSi9JqZuy7
o Marché Bio des Quais de Bordeaux – Sun & Tue mornings https://maps.app.goo.gl/obVYCdXN94a8TrXw7
• La Cité du Vin
• Evening: Dinner Cruise in Bordeaux
o Les Bateaux Bordelais pier in front of 24 Quai des Chartrons
o 8:00 PM Boarding our boat-restaurant SICAMBRE
o 8:30 Departure for a 2-hour river cruise along the UNESCO riverfront
o Dinner on board, with local products
o Navigation commented by an audio guide (fr/eng)
o Discovery of the Pierre Bridge, the Chaban Delmas Bridge, the Cité du Vin and the Aquitaine Bridge
o 10:30 PM Returning to the pier
o 11:00 PM End of the evening
• Overnight in Bordeaux
June 8, Monday
• 17:30 Uber Hotel to Airport
• Easy Jet EJU1871 dep Bordeaux 20:10, Arr Faro 21:10
Other Options
• Atlantic Coastline & Arcachon Bay
o Morning: Travel west toward the Atlantic Ocean to ascend the Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe. Walk the crest for panoramas balancing pine forests on one side and the Atlantic on the other.
o Afternoon: Take a traditional pinasse boat across Arcachon Bay to the oyster villages of the Cap Ferret peninsula. Sit at a wooden table in a working oyster shack (cabane) to sample seafood directly from the water.
o Evening: Return to Bordeaux. Unwind with a quiet, seasonal meal at a neighborhood brasserie in the upscale Quinconces district.
• Graves Gravels & Sweet Sauternes
o Morning: Head south into the Graves region, the cradle of Bordeaux winemaking. Visit an estate specializing in crisp, barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon blends.
o Afternoon: Continue south into Sauternes, where unique microclimates generate morning river mists that cultivate "noble rot" (Botrytis cinerea). Tour an estate like Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey to discover the meticulous, grape-by-grape harvesting process.
o Evening: Celebrate your final evening with a multi-course, Michelin-starred tasting dinner paired with aged Sauternes vintages right in the vineyards.
• Rue Sainte-Catherine - longest shopping street in Europe
Resources
Google AI
Six day authentic Bordeaux - https://share.google/aimode/krj0c5ONTDlX0ngEO
Refined split stay - https://share.google/aimode/8SBh0LsCnMg3Aktia
How to book - https://share.google/aimode/VrPps5LaAl4MUPDNA
Food & Wine tours - https://share.google/aimode/q1dru7JReCg414i7L
Saint-Émilion
Food and Beverage experiences
• 4e Vague Café (4th Wave Café) - In the heart of Bordeaux's Chartrons district, 4e vague café invites you to discover the richness of Hawaiian coffees through a selection of specialty coffees imported directly from Hawaii. HOURS Open Monday to Sunday: 8am - 1pm (except Saturday, which opens at 9am) https://www.4evaguecafe.fr/
• École du Vin de Bordeaux– Elegant wine school subsidized by the government so prices are good. Great for wine tasting. High-quality wine at a low cost
• Bistro Melodie
•
Best authentic local restaurants in Bordeaux
For an authentic taste of southwest France, the best local restaurants in Bordeaux include traditional bistros like Le Bouchon Bordelais, lively market gems like Au Bistrot, and budget-friendly spots like Les Drôles. These spots avoid tourist traps to give you an unpretentious, market-to-table culinary experience. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Traditional Bistros & Local Classics
Le Bouchon Bordelais
4.7
(951)
€30–80Restaurant
Hôtel de Ville - Quinconces
Cozy spot right in the city center. It is well-regarded for serving rich, meat-oriented regional dishes paired with an excellent local wine list. [, 2, 3]
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Les Drôles BORDEAUX
4.7
(2.3K)
€20–30Restaurant
Hôtel de Ville - Quinconces
Located in the historic Saint-Rémi neighborhood, this restaurant is highly popular for its authentic Southwestern French comfort food. It features a cozy vaulted stone cellar and an affordable three-course fixed menu featuring classics like magret de canard (duck breast). [, 2, 3, 4]
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Le Vieux Chaudron
4.6
(1.3K)
€10–20Restaurant
Hôtel de Ville - Quinconces
A true local canteen serving honest, traditional French fare. This is where you go for generous portions of confit de canard, escargot, steak frites, and gâteau Basque at great value. [1, 2, 3]
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Chez Les Ploucs
4.2
(2.0K)
€20–30Restaurant
Hôtel de Ville - Quinconces
Set in the Saint-Pierre district, this rustic restaurant mimics an old French farmhouse. It focuses heavily on the hearty traditions of Gascon cuisine. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Market-Fresh & Contemporary Local Spots
Au Bistrot
4.7
(704)
€20–40Bistro
Capucins - Victoire
Located right by the vibrant Marché des Capucins, this classic bistro sources its ingredients directly from the market stalls every day. Expect perfectly executed seafood, local sausages, and seasonal specialties. [, 2, 3, 4, 5]
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Les Récoltants
4.8
(1.7K)
€20–30Restaurant
Hôtel de Ville - Quinconces
A true 0-kilometer farm-to-table establishment. They cultivate organic vegetables at their own farm and source meats directly from local producers, crafting a new, highly inventive menu every single day. [1]
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Atelier des Faures
4.8
(814)
€20–60Restaurant
Hôtel de Ville - Quinconces
Run by Chef Roman Winicki near Place Pey Berland, this tiny gem offers a modern, creative spin on market-fresh local ingredients. [1]
Quick Bites & Wine Bars
Bistrot à huitres: "Chez Jean-Mi"
4.6
(1.2K)
€10–20Seafood
Capucins - Victoire
An iconic oyster bar located inside the covered Marché des Capucins. Rub shoulders with the locals while enjoying fresh Arcachon Bay oysters, white wine, and spicy crépinettes (sausages). [1, 3, 4, 5]
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Ô p'tit Bahut
4.8
(667)
€20–30French
Hôtel de Ville - Quinconces
A charming, stone-walled tapas and wine bar perfect for a relaxed evening. They serve exceptional artisanal charcuterie and cheese boards showcasing local regional varieties. [1, 2, 3, 4]
A Guide to Bordeaux Wine Classifications by Sub -Region
Left Bank Haut Medoc- 1855 Classification of Châteaux (ordered by Napoleon III for the best Bordeaux wines for the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris). The levels start at 1st Growth (Premier Cru) through 5th Growth (62 wines). The 1st Growths are: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut Brion (in Graves) and Château Mouton Rothschild. Sub-appellations include: Margaux, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Julien, Listrac, and Moulis.“Super Seconds”- are those 2nd Growths of Haut Medoc that are close to being 1st Growths. Example: Léoville Las Cases.
Note: all other Left Bank wines are unclassified or Cru Bourgeois (Medoc) –Châteaux that are examined and certified for quality.
Left Bank Graves- 1959 Classification: Châteaus are rated “Crus Classé” for red or white wine. Sub-region Pessac-Léognan has its own AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlée) and is famous for both white and red Bordeaux wines.
Left Bank Sauternes- Classified in 1855 there are only 3 levels: Premier Cru Supérieur (solely for Chateau d’Yquem), Premier Cru (1st Growth, and Deuxiemes Cru (2nd Growth).
Right Bank St. Emilion: This is the only Right Bank location to classify wines. This is updated every 10 years. For 2022 they classify 4 levels of wines: Premier Grand Cru Classé A (Château Pavie and Château Figeac.) & B (12 properties, Grand Cru Classé (71 properties), and Grand Cru (lowest classed level). There was controversy in the 2022 classifications as several famous and previous “A” properties opted-out of classification: Ch. Cheval Blanc, Ch. Ausone, and Ch. Angélus.
Right Bank Pomerol- This region has no official classification, yet Chateau Petrus is considered to rank with the 1st growths in Bordeaux.
Other Bordeaux wines, including entry level: There are 7 AOC’s (Appellations d’Origine controlee) for these wines: Bordeaux Rouge AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge, Bordeaux Clairet, Bordeaux Rosé, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux Supérieur Blanc, and Crémant de Bordeaux.
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