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Tony

Italy - Autumn in the Tuscan Countryside

October 2024.


Italy has been a frequent and favorite destination since we moved to Europe. In the two and a half years since we relocated to Portugal, we've made five trips to this beautiful country. I'll admit that, for us, most of the allure of Italy centers around the food; in fact, it's so easy and inexpensive for us to fly we've often joked about taking a trip just for a nice dinner.


For this trip, we joined a group of friends from the U.S. who invited us to join them on their journey through the Tuscany countryside. Clare had planned our Agriturismo locations, which made our planning for the trip much easier. We flew from Faro to Rome in less than three hours, hopped on a train from the airport to Rome, then a fast train to Florence, where we would spend the night and meet up with them the next day.


Off and on, rain accompanied us on the trip, but the sun shined, and the rain seemed to stop just when we needed it to.



Upon arrival in Florence, we stayed near the train station at Hotel Rapallo. A rainy arrival and morning the next day didn't keep us from exploring this part of the city in the morning as we awaited the arrival of our friends, who landed in Rome early and drove to Florence to meet us.


We decided to grab lunch before heading to the Agriturismo. Earlier, I found my namesake restaurant a few blocks away, Trattoria Bondi Florence. The atmosphere and food were a great way to kick off our Tuscany experience


After lunch, we were off to our first stay at the agriturismo Terre di Cocomo in Buggiano, Tuscany.


An unforgettable, magical experience in the Tuscan countryside. The Farm is owned, operated, and curated by Emilio & Sara and their children Agatha & Aquila. Immediately upon arrival, you feel like you are being welcomed into a good friend's home. Outstanding hospitality is provided by the entire family, including the friendly cats roaming the property, the dog Woodstock, the Donkeys Cocomo & Dada, and the entire team of fantastic hosts. The grounds are precisely what you would dream about at a Tuscan Agriturismo, lush, well-maintained, and absolutely stunning, as are the views of the surrounding areas, lush rolling hills, and hilltop villages. The rooms were well-appointed and cozy, the food was fantastic, and the wines Emilio and others made were perfect. We were not sure how they found the time, but they also did a fantastic job growing the produce served, managing the vineyards and making their own wine, overseeing the olive groves used to create their olive oil, and raising bees for honey. It's hard to think about leaving the property, but it's also centrally located near unique small villages to explore, thermal spas, and neighboring Lucca and Pisa. A real gem and a place that we plan to return to often.


For our first night at Terre di Cocomo, they provided cocktails and dinner for us as a welcome to the farm.


More photos from around the farm.


The next day we took a trip to Florence about an hour and a half from the farm.


Lunch in Florence at La Giostra, a restaurant recommended by a friend of the group. It is family-owned and operated (we ended up sitting next to the granddaughter of the owner and her son). Located near the center of Florence, the charming interior was inviting. The food was just OK; you could tell it was a little more geared to serving tourists.


Members of our group, out for their morning walk, headed from the farm up the hill to this small quaint village and noticed the small restaurant and bar just outside the village walls. After a full day in Florence, we returned late and decided to see if they might be open for a late snack. They were and welcomed us in with open arms.


Ristorante Antico Colle and the village of Colle di Buggiano are absolute gems! The family-owned and operated restaurant, frequented mainly by local residents, is, on so many levels, one of those great one-of-a-kind experiences that we endeavor to find. So good, in fact, that we went twice during our four nights in the region! The restaurant is small and cozy; very little English is spoken here, so the communication was great fun. Late-night pizza and dessert was our first experience. The pizza was good, but Grandpa's desserts were to die for! On another night, we experienced the bar the family owns and operates across the street, which was great fun as a large group of young local residents were there for food and drink celebrating an 18th birthday.


Day trip today to Pisa, a stop at the beach in Lido di Camaiore, and afternoon and dinner in Lucca


Pisa


Bagni Buoniamici in Lido di Camaiore


Lucca