Italy - Napoli, Capri, Positano, and the Amalfi Coast
- Tony
- Oct 24
- 22 min read
October 2025
Living in Europe makes traveling to spectacular destinations incredibly easy, with so much to experience right at our fingertips, most of which are less than a three-hour flight away. Our list of destinations to visit was lengthy to begin with, but despite frequent travel, it continues to grow as we meet other like-minded travelers and share travel stories. We try to travel slowly and soak in the culture and sights of the areas we visit, not rushing to see everything on a single trip, as we know we can return at any point to discover more. This trip was similar, with little advance booking to leave our schedules open and explore deeper into the discoveries we made while we were there. Don't get me wrong, there is still a lot of research to be done before going to get a lay of the land and learn a little history of the area. And, of course, some things need to be booked in advance, such as air travel, accommodations, and activities that require advance bookings. Traveling during non-peak months certainly makes this style of travel easier.
On this trip, we traveled to Napoli for three nights, another three nights on the island of Capri, and four nights in Positano. When considering travel dates, it's best to avoid the peak summer months in this area. We found that hotels were significantly less expensive (50% or more) if we travel late September through late October. You do have to be careful, as many establishments close for the winter season, which begins in late October or November. Additionally, some activities, restaurants, or ferry schedules are reduced during the off-season. It's also good to note the rhythm of the travelers to avoid peak visiting times. For example, Naples hosts a significant number of Cruise ships that invade the Ferries and popular nearby destinations early in the day, and return in force late afternoon. Get to know what the ship schedules are, their size, and how many of them are scheduled to be in port while you are there.
Even though it was the shoulder season, many of these areas were still crowded. I can only imagine what they are like in peak season. The other thing we noticed was a far greater number of North American tourists in these areas than from any other Nationality.
Naples has been a long-standing must-visit destination for us, which I must admit was driven by the lure of Neapolitan pizza! Seriously, though, Napoli has so much more to offer. A large metropolitan city, the third-largest in Italy, can feel a bit gritty in some areas, but has far outlived its former reputation as a rough, mob-run region, now offering safe and scenic cultural experiences for visitors.
A few things to know about visiting Napoli: For transportation, taxis can be expensive. To avoid overcharging, use the Uber app to lock in pricing and payment for taxi or Uber rides. You can even book a helicopter through the app. Buses are rarely on time, but they are inexpensive, and ferries are a convenient and reliable option for getting around the coast. Food is very reasonable here, noticeably less expensive than in other destinations in the area, such as Capri and the Amalfi Coast. There is a lot to see in the historic center. The Calabrian culture is impressive, and most areas can be accessed on foot. There are a lot of hills and cobblestone streets, so be prepared. We felt very safe walking along the waterfront and into the center, practice common sense as you would in any other metropolitan city.
We stayed at the Eurostar's Hotel Excelsior on the waterfront near Castel dell'Ovo and Fontana del Gigante (which were both under renovation). The hotel was nice and the views of the bay, marina, and Mt Vesuvius were fantastic. However, the view of Mary looking out from the balcony was the best. The last photo shows the traditional Sfogliatelle, a Neapolitan treat often eaten for breakfast with coffee. It's a shell-shaped, multilayered pastry with a delicate, crispy texture and creamy, ricotta-based filling. I became a regular of the Officina Cafe for my morning Calabrian routine.
We walked the Napoli Seafront promenade from the Fontana del Gigante in Santa Lucia, just in front of our hotel. The fountain and promenade in this section were both under renovation while we were there, so we missed some of the scenery that was behind the fences.
Near the fountain, you can divert into the Borgo Marinari marina and fishing village and stop in to one of the many restaurants there. The Castel dell'Ovo (also closed for renovation) dominates this area, a fortress originally built by the Normans.
A short distance along the promenade, we exited the construction zone to a broad, lively, oceanfront promenade lined with restaurants and cafes, most of which had open-air seating that spilled out onto the promenade.
Our walk continues, with the promenade now situated between the oceanfront and the Villa Comunale park. Large boulders create a barrier between land and the sea along the promenade. People like to pose on the rocks for their selfies, often accompanied by the occasional "art".
We continued along the promenade to the upscale area of Mergellina, with its hillside luxury homes and marina, and turned back to enjoy the sunset on the return trip.
Leaving the waterfront behind today, we dove into the captivating historic heart of the city, both on our own and on a fantastic Food and History tour.
The area is filled with history, architecture, churches, and museums. Best explored on foot to experience picturesque aging Baroque facades, hidden piazzas and courtyards of the Vomero Hill down to the tight boisterous alleys of the historic Spanish Quarter, and the beautiful chaos that characterizes local life in Montesanto, the working-class belly of the city. High and low, these neighborhoods are so dramatically different that it's hard to believe they're all part of the same city.
In the lower regions, the shops spill out onto the streets, with Markets featuring everything from fresh produce and fishmongers to clothing and everyday supplies.
We happened upon a fantastic Lunch at Pizzeria Trattoria Tutino, a small, unassuming tent placed in a parking lot with a small kitchen in the building behind it. The Caprese salad and the seafood pasta were among the best we had during our trip.
We are reminded frequently that Italians are generally boisterous in their actions, very aggressive drivers, very loud in conversation, and expressive in their communication, using their hands and eyes to passionately convey their message.
In Naples, these Italian traits are crucial layers that make up the culture in the streets and neighborhoods, not only in the noise but also in the beautiful chaos that brings them to life.
Street Art is everywhere, some good, some not so good, but most have a message or meaning to them. Throughout the city, there are banners, flags, and monuments dedicated to the legendary football player Diego Maradona, revered here like a saint after he helped bring a championship to the city.
Our Food and History walking tour took us through new and old neighborhoods, from the top of the hilly city to the bottom of its working-class neighborhoods. From cafes to street food stands, we tasted some of the Neapolitan locals' favorites. They do like their food to be heavy, often fried, and accompanied by loud conversation, but it's delicious and traditional, just like generations before them. We didn't indulge in the infamous pizza on this tour, but we had several opportunities during our stay to try some of the best.
Our tour began the Neapolitan way, with a cup of thick espresso at a Neapolitan cafe in the more modern hilltop neighborhood of Vomero, accompanied by the traditional sfogliatelle pastry. Throughout the day, we sampled stuffed pagnottiello rolls, Montanara pizza, and Campanian cheeses (the region is famous for Buffalo Mozzarella). From the San Martino terrace, we took the funicular downhill into the bustling streets of the old city below.
Down in Montesanto, the working-class neighborhood of Naples, we immersed ourselves in the vibrant chaos of the streets, filled with local life. Near many of the neighborhood fishmonger stalls, you will find the ever-popular paper cones of freshly-fried fish and seafood at a friggitoria. At Spiedo d' Oro, we sampled fried macaroni and fresh pasta. We stopped at the window of Da Gennaros to watch the animated ladies work their magic, making Pizze Fritte (fried pizza). Just when we thought we couldn't eat anything else, we ended the day with gelato made from buffalo's milk and, of course, a Limoncello.
After a great stay in Naples, we took a short ferry ride to our next destination, the island of Capri. A small island located just off the coast of Naples, mostly known for its lush landscapes and steep granite hillsides. However, it has become a destination for those seeking relaxation and luxury shopping.
It's fun to window-shop at the numerous luxury brand stores as you walk through the main pedestrian-only streets, but there is so much more to discover by hiking and spending time on the water around the island.
The island is a big day trip destination, with many ferry boats arriving filled with tourists from other parts of the coast or from the numerous cruise ships docked for the day in Naples. A friend recommended staying on the island to enjoy it after the throngs of visitors leave in the afternoon, and we were glad we did.
We stayed at Hotel La Vega, which is located a short distance away from the main tourist area and shops, along a path that slopes toward the south side of the island. It's much quieter here, away from the main square, and the views are stunning. Hotels are not inexpensive here, but coming in mid-October, we found that the rates were mostly 1/2 of what they are in peak season.
When arriving at the Marina, you have a few options to get to your hotel, with some based on where your hotel is located on the island. Since ours was like most in the pedestrian section, once you reach the main square by bus, taxi, or funicular, it's about a 15-minute walk through crowded streets.
The funicular costs approximately € 2.60 per person, each way, and typically has a line to wait in (residents and guests with hotel reservations have a skip-the-line option). Only one small piece of luggage is allowed. Taxis cost € 25, plus a fee for luggage. Alternatively, there is a bus option (no luggage) available for less than € 3. Of course, you can walk the steep uphill route to the center if you are in the mood. If you wish to have a porter transport your luggage to the hotel, the fee is 20 euros per bag. We used the porters and the funicular option, which turned out to be the most civilized option for us since we had two medium-sized bags plus our small personal bags.
Upon our arrival, we asked the hotel about things to do on the island, including a boat tour to see the island from the water. Today was sunny and warm, but the forecast was for rain for the next few days, so they suggested and arranged a sunset boat tour around the island for that afternoon.
We made our way to the Marina, stopping at Salumeria da Aldo for a bit of bread, meat, cheese, and a bottle of prosecco, and headed to our small traditional boat, accompanied by our Italian captain and tour guide, who graciously took us around the island. The waters in the area are deep blue, and the cliffs and rock formations are a beautiful sight. Friends suggested that we pass on a stop at the popular blue grotto along the way, which we were happy to avoid.
On a recommendation from the hotel, we had a fantastic dinner at Cinquanta due cento, a small restaurant serving excellent food. The stuffed zucchini flowers and the Pappardelle al Ragu di cinghiale were perfect.
A short walk from the Hotel we visited the Certosa San Giacomo Airy, 14th-century Carthusian monastery with diverse architecture, frescoes & views of the sea has been transformed into a cultural center where you will find a Small Cloister and Large Cloister, the church, gardens, an Archaeological Museum (Roman finds, statues from the Blue Grotto), and the Diefenbach Museum (German Symbolist art).
Located in the heart of Capri, it's one of the island's oldest historic complexes still in use today. Its long history has seen 16th-century raids by Turkish pirates and major restoration work in the 17th century. After the expulsion of the Carthusian monks in 1808, the monastery was used for various civil and military purposes during the French occupation, including a hospice, prison, barracks, and even housing for American troops during World War II.
Images from around Capri. The first two are the main square, the junction point of the Pedestrian streets, the top of the Funicular from the Marina, and the transportation hub for taxis and buses.
A rainy day that kept a lot of visitors away, as it was much less crowded today than it was on the day we arrived.
Near the Certosa San Giacomo monastery, we walked through the Gardens of Augustus, a picturesque botanical garden and footpaths with sweeping views of the cliffs and the sea. One of the paths winds all the way down to the sea; unfortunately, it was closed today due to the weather.
A short but very crowded bus ride up to the small village of Ana Capri for a little less luxury shopping and more quaint streets throughout the town. There is a chairlift near here that will take you to the top of the island for supposedly amazing views, but it was not operating today due to the rainy weather.
We visited the Church of San Michele, built in 1719, which features altars adorned with intricately carved wood inlays that resemble marble. The most striking aspect of the church is Leonardo Chiaiese's famous floor executed in maiolica tiles. It depicts the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden by the Archangel Michael. You will find exotic beasts, including a lion, an elephant, a crocodile, as well as a unicorn, depicted as people.
A pleasant but rainy afternoon walk up to Villa Jovis, the remains of a grand Roman palace, built by Emperor Tiberius in AD 27. About an hour, mostly uphill hike each way through narrow streets (walkways) of a residential area on the island. A peaceful and scenic route through a quiet side of the island. Although not much remains of the ruins, the history and views from the headland are amazing, and the resident goats are very cute.
After our hike, a nice hearty lunch of Fagioli e Scarola, Pizza alla Funghi, and Pasta alla Puttanesca at Ristorante Pizzeria Verginiello
The next day, we set off for Positano, traveling by ferry along the Amalfi Coast. We arrived at the picturesque, colorful hillside village, our home base for the next few days.
Sunsets around Positano changed daily depending on the weather.
Our home base in Positano is the Hotel Montemare, located just up the hill from the Marina. The room was lovely with a view of the water and coastline. The hotel also features a rooftop restaurant and bar, offering outstanding views.
Today we hired a driver for a road trip tour along the coast south of Positano to Amalfi and Ravello. The route along the coast to Amalfi is busy but incredibly scenic, passing through small villages perched on the cliffs of the coast.
Our first stop was Amalfi, where the main narrow street, running up the center of the village, was lined with shops and restaurants and filled with day trippers like us. Italy's oldest maritime republic, with just over three square kilometers of hillside beauty that opens like a fan towards the sea. Ancient Roman origins are evident from many ruins, including those dating back to the reign of Emperor Tiberius.
The town's prominent landmark is the Duomo, the iconic church of St. Andrew, which towers over Amalfi's main piazza. Dedicated to the Apostle Saint Andrew, whose relics are kept here, the church is a notable feature of the town. Dating back to the 9th century, the church underwent alterations over time by various occupying cultures, with notable influences from Arab-Norman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. Leading up to the church is an impressive, wide flight of 62 steps leading from the main piazza.
We spent little time here exploring the church and the narrow streets of the small village, but we did get to see a local wedding being held in the church and hear its massive pipe organ being played.
Turning uphill and slightly inland, it's a short drive to Ravello, a scenic small town set 365 meters above the Tyrrhenian sea, and home to iconic cliffside villas and gardens. The road leading here is lined with terraced gardens, many of which are planted with the region's famous lemon groves.
Ravello is a town best explored on foot, with numerous narrow pedestrian streets that hold their own surprises around every corner. Whether you happen across another spectacular view, fantastic architecture, a quaint restaurant, or an expansive garden, you could get lost for hours exploring Ravello.
Of course, you can't miss the 13th-century, Moorish-style Villa Rufolo that offers far-reaching views from its terraced gardens, or Villa Cimbrone, a medieval-style estate perched on a steep outcrop, surrounded by another celebrated garden.
Ravello is also known as the City of Music, hosting the Ravello Music Festival and other indoor and outdoor concerts in the summer.
Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone
Stopping in a local grocery store, we noticed the expansive pasta aisle, which is probably a bit larger than in your local market (unless you live in Italy). However, it's similar to what we see in Portugal, although there, tinned fish and olive oil dominate the shelves.
Our guide recommended a long-standing restaurant in the village of Ravello, Cumpa' Cosimo, for lunch. A traditional rustic restaurant with Nonna overseeing everything to ensure you don't leave hungry. She even chastised a table of locals for allowing one of their guests to wander outside while her food was getting cold.
The setting is rustic Italian and feels like you are at your Italian grandma's for lunch. The food was traditional and delicious, including Ravioli and Pasta al Forno, as well as a surprise gift of homemade Tiramisu brought to the table by Nonna herself.
More of Positano
For a few days along the coast, we kept seeing groups of these old Fiat 500s. There was a rally this week that gathered clubs from the area to spend time together touring the Amalfi Coast.
Visiting Sorrento today by Ferry from Positano, another beautiful day to enjoy the scenic ride along the Amalfi coast
Arriving at the marina in Sorrento, you are greeted by a steep cliff with the town perched on top and beautiful buildings hanging onto its edge. Following an exhilarating walk up the steps to the village (a public elevator is available if you follow the signs), we arrived at the cafe-lined Piazza Tasso and the historic center, with its captivating maze of narrow alleys.
Throughout Sorrento, you'll find alleyways and squares full of historic buildings, Beautiful villas with lush gardens, and groves of citrus that make up some of the city's public parks, and sweeping clifftop views of the bay of Naples, Vesuvius, and neighboring islands in the distance.
Adjacent to the marina are beach clubs situated on wooden piers lined with umbrella-covered lounges, tables for dining, and colorful striped changing rooms reminiscent of fishermen's huts. From the piers, there is access to the water designated for swimming, and a few brave souls were hanging out in the not-so-warm waters.
In one of the narrow pedestrian streets, we stopped for a fantastic lunch at L'Antica Trattoria.
We enjoyed the Burrata with toasted bread, tomato, and basil oil, the spaghetti cacio e pepe with goat cheese, black pepper, and Neapolitan-style beef ragout, and the tagliolini with lemon cream sauce, red prawns, and lumpfish on creamed spinach.
I must admit that throughout our trip, we were in search of the best Neapolitan pizza, which is only natural, since Napoli is said to be the home of authentic pizza. We tasted many, missed some of the highly recommended spots, but found our favorite here in Positano.
Saraceno d'Oro is a small restaurant with a typical Positano streetside terrace (dining where you could touch the passing cars). Pizza with thin slices of Porchetta, and chunks of roasted potato, tomato sauce, and mozzarella, and a Margherita pizza with mushrooms.
Today we rented a Vespa to explore the Amalfi coast north of Positano on our way to Nerano for lunch. We felt very "Dolce Vita" on the back of an Italian scooter motoring through the scenic Amalfi coast.
More spectacular coastline, then up to the top of the hill through humble farms and forests with views across the other side of the island of Sorrento and the bay of Naples. We then descended toward the coast to the fishing village of Nerano.
On the return trip, we encountered a traffic stoppage along the cliffs due to a film crew shooting scenes along the route. Our guide a few days ago showed us an area in the south near the town of Praiano, where they had recently filmed for an upcoming Star Wars saga. Perhaps this was a continuation of that film shoot?
"As seen on TV," We happened to catch an episode of Stanley Tucci's searching for Italy, where he was visiting Naples and the Amalfi coast, and spent some time at Lo Scoglio da Tommaso in Nerano.
A little over an hour Vespa ride from Positano, or arrive by boat, as we saw many private and small tour boats arrive for lunch.
The Spaghetti alla Nerano, made with fresh local zucchini and featured in Tucci's episode, was fantastic, as were the octopus salad and the spaghetti with clams.
We start our journey back home today with a long and expensive ride from Positano to the Naples Airport. Next time, I would take a ferry and overnight in Naples or schedule a later flight for the return trip.
The trip was fantastic; we enjoyed incredible scenery, culture, experiences, and food in all locations. Others have shared with us that Naples wasn't a place they enjoyed, but it fits squarely into the type of places we enjoy visiting. A little gritty, less polished, and more authentic in its culture and experiences. Not necessarily a tourist hub, but a place where you can easily experience the real side of life here, not just the pre-programmed tourist experience. While we were happy to experience Capri and the Amalfi coast, it was a fantastic experience and beautiful scenery, but it seemed to lack the authenticity that we enjoy.
We are growing weary of the never-ending crowds of visitors to primary travel destinations, regardless of the time of year we travel. We find ways to avoid the crowds by getting away from the principal attractions and exploring off-the-beaten-path areas. The crowds wont stop us from traveling to popular destinations but will make us be more selective of the areas that we visit.
Until next time...
Itinerary - Naples, Capri, and Amalfi Coast, October 2025
10/11 Sat, Travel Day/Naples
Transfer from Airport to Hotel –use UBER app for taxi
Eurostars Hotel Excelsior, Via Partenope, 48 Naples 80121 Italy, 081 764 01 11
3 Nights, Deluxe double room with sea view
Dinner: Pizza at Pizzaria Da Attilio (7pm-11:30pm) OR Pizzeria La Notizia #53 (location #53 7pm-12:30am)
OR
Dinner: Castel dell'Ovo (walking distance) stands on the historic islet of Megaride, today connected to the mainland with a charming causeway and crowded with the bars and restaurants of Borgo Marinari. This is the perfect spot for a romantic walk or dinner featuring fresh seafood or traditional Neapolitan dishes.
10/12 Sun Naples
Explore Naples on our own
Morning: Markets
Porta Nolana market in Piazza Nolana (Near Napoli Centrale or Napoli Porta Nolana stations), open every day from 8.00 to 14.00. Located in a very lively context, not far from the sea, this market is famous above all for the sale of fish. Attending negotiations between the fishmongers' stalls is always an opportunity for great fun.
Poggioreale market (Shoe Alley) located in via Marino di Caramanico, open on Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday from 8.00 to 15.00. One of the best known and most loved markets, for clothing, and the centerpiece is the sale of shoes
Afternoon: Naples Day One: The Seafront – Promenade from Santa Lucia to Mergellina (3km) https://www.naplesinsider.com/en/e/3-day-itinerary-naples-italy
Evening: Spaccanapoli (the historic street that cuts Naples in two)
A must-visit destination in Naples. As the name suggests, it is a long and narrow street that literally cuts the city in two. Wander past busy shops, traditional craft workshops, and eye-catching buildings with colourful facades.
A great way to experience the local culture and get a sense of the daily life of the Neapolitan people. Whether you’re interested in shopping, photography, or simply soaking up the atmosphere, you could easily spend anywhere from a couple of hours to half a day exploring this historic street.
10/13 Mon Naples
9:30 AM Naples Food Tour, Culinary Backstreets, 5.5 hours
Explore Naples on our own. Use Naples Day Two: The Historic Center https://www.naplesinsider.com/en/e/3-day-itinerary-naples-italy
Naples Underground
10/14 Tue Naples/Capri
Transfer by Ferry (Ferryhopper.com) to Capri
Transfer from Capri Port to Hotel La Vega (check with your hotel for options)
Taxi 25 euros fixed plus luggage but only gets you to the main part of the village
Luggage porter from the marina direct to your hotel for 20 euros per bag (pricy but saves you from dragging your luggage on cobblestone streets, hills, and steps depending on where your hotel is located
Funicular from the Marina to the main square 2.40 e each person one way. You can only take one small bag each. In peak season there is a special line for locals and hotel guests to avoid the lines.
Hotel La Vega - Via Occhio Marino 10, Capri (NA), 80073, +39 081 837 0909
3 Nights stay, Classic Junior Suite
We did a two hour private boat tour of Capri for sunset without the blue grotto. Pick up a snack and bottle of spumante for the ride
Explore Capri on our own
10/15 Wed Capri
Hikes/walks
Our favorite walk is around the southeast corner of the island, near the Punta Tragara hotel. The path (which starts as the Via Tragara) goes past there to (and beyond) the Arco Naturale, all along the coast (also goes past a famous villa called the Malaparte). There's a nice cafe along the way.
The Tiberius ruins are a must, a nice walk along the Via Tiberio to the Roman ruins of Tiberius's palace (I think it's called Villa Jovis). Nearby to that is the Villa Lysis, which is oddly spectacular (or spectacularly odd :-)) from what I remember.
Hanging around the piazza for a glass of limoncello after the tourists board the boat for Sorenta/Naples.
There's a wonderful beach to swim at at the foot of the Punta Tragara hotel. Easy access to the water, and a nice cafe as well, as I recall.
The Blue Grotto is always crowded, and if you're only on the island for a day, I'd pass on it.
Anna Capri, the west part of the island, is quieter, and there's a cable car you can ride (one person per lift), which is nice, but I like the southeast and east side better.
10/16 Thu Capri
Day trip by boat to Ischia? Ferry is 10:45 ret 16:50.
Or boat around Capri
10/17 Fri Capri/Positano
Transfer by ferry to Positano
Hotel Montemare - Viale Pasitea, 119, 84017 Positano SA, Italy, +39089875010
4 nights, Deluxe double room with sea view
Explore Positano on our own: Use Day 2 -Positano, Praino, and Vettica Maggiore https://goaskalocal.com/blog/4-day-amalfi-coast-itinerary
10/18 Sat, Positano/Amalfi Coast
Day trip by car or boat to Amalfi, Ravello: use Day 3 -Amalfi, Atrani, Ravello https://goaskalocal.com/blog/4-day-amalfi-coast-itinerary
Ravello, visit Villa Rufolo-clifftop villa, gardens, views. Villa Cimbrone-gardens, terrazza del’infinito
Lunch suggestion from Terry - Amalfi, visit Duomo di Sant’Andrea, lunch at Sigilgaida inside Hotel Rufolo in Ravello. The food was amazing, and the view was even better.
10/19 Sun, Positano/Amalfi Coast
Day trip by car, boat, or Ferry to Sorrento
use Day 1 -Sorrento https://goaskalocal.com/blog/4-day-amalfi-coast-itinerary
Sorrento - Lorelei, which is supposed to be a Michelin restaurant, but we didn’t end up eating there. Instead, we stumbled upon La Colonna Sunset Bar & Cucina, which had a more bar-like vibe, but I had the best seared ahi of my life, and the views were amazing again.
10/20 Mon, Positano/Amalfi Coast
Day 4 Walk of the Gods Bomerano to Positano beach https://goaskalocal.com/blog/4-day-amalfi-coast-itinerary
Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) The most popular hike along the Amalfi Coast, lofty views of the coastline and cliff-hugging villages as you make the not-too-strenuous descent from Bomerano, in the mountains west of Amalfi, to Norcelle, just above Positano. Not surprisingly, the outing is more enjoyable, much less taxing, better views if you hike down from Bomerano rather than up from Norcelle.
The route is a little under 4 miles and the descent should take a little less than 4 hours. The first leg is the bus trip, about an hour, from Amalfi to Bomerano, famous for its Provolone di Monaco cheese, so pick up a wedge to enjoy on the way down. Signs in the piazza will direct you to the trailhead. From Norcelle, you can take a local bus into Positano.
10/21 Tue, Travel Day/fly home
Sample Itineraries and information
Next trip to Naples check out the Royal Palace in Caserta (Bigger than Versailles) https://reggiadicaserta.cultura.gov.it/en/
Food & Drink Naples-Capri-Positano-Amalfi Coast
Eat and Drink in Naples
Buffala Mozzarela & San Marzano Tomatoes
Pizza fritta da Fernanda (Tucci)
Brandi pizzaria
Pizzeria La Notizia (2 locations near each other #53 is the original, #94 the newer space)(Tucci)(Michelin)
Il Casolare (Cheese Farm)
Pizzeria Pellone (Bourdain)
Pizzaria Da Attilio (Michelin guide)
L'antica Pizzeria da Michele (Michelin guide)
The most famous for Pizza are Sorbillo and da Michele, but there are endless options for sampling unforgettable “pizza napolitana”!
Castel dell'Ovo stands on the historic islet of Megaride, connected to the mainland with a causeway, crowded with the bars and restaurants of Borgo Marinari. perfect spot for a romantic walk or dinner featuring fresh seafood or traditional Neapolitan dishes. an authentic spaghetti con le vongole, O' Tabaccaro restaurant, a rustic family-run trattoria. Alternatively, book a table at Da Zi' Teresa for more elegant surroundings.
Naples Markets
Poggioreale market
It is located in via Marino di Caramanico, open on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday from 8.00 to 15.00. This is one of the best known and most loved markets, find clothing (also used, in excellent condition) and make deals. The centerpiece is the shoes; a quantity of footwear to satisfy all tastes! go there the first opening hours, otherwise, you will miss the best opportunities.
Porta Nolana market
in Piazza Nolana, open every day from 8.00 to 14.00. a very lively area, not far from the sea, famous for the sale of fish. Attending negotiations between the fishmongers' stalls is always an opportunity for great fun.
Eat and Drink in Capri
Traditional Dishes on the Island of Capri
Ravioli capresi: fresh pasta filled with caciotta cheese and majoram, tossed with a sauce of fresh tomatoes. Any home cook on Capri can make this dish, and it's featured on most restaurant menus.
Caprese salad: a simple dish of fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, topped with a few leaves of basil, a sprinkle of salt, and a drizzle of olive oil. According to legend, this salad was invented by the chef at the Quisisana Hotel as an homage to Italy during a Futurism convention.
Torta caprese: locals on Capri call this simply "almond cake", but it is known off the island as "torta caprese". By any name, it's a delicious sweet torte made with chocolate and almonds, perfect for celiacs as it is flourless.
Verginielio Pulalli - Pasta and pizza with a view
Gerano – Upscale dining
Cinquantadue centro – near the main square and Bus stand. Fantastic food, the dining room is very small. Specializes in meat but also does amazing pasta
Lo Sfizio - Walking along the little road that leads from the center of Capri towards Villa Jovis. home-style cuisine, excellent value, and a relaxed atmosphere.
Ristorante L'Agave Capri - View
Salumeria da aldo – Deli at the Marina
Michelin stars
*Le Monzu
*Mamma
**L’Olivo in the Capri Palace
Eat and Drink in Positano/Amalfi Coast
Marina del Cantone - Lo Scoglio (Tucci) –Spaghetti w/zucchini - will arrange a boat to the restaurant
Chez Black Positano beach
Ristorante Max Positano midtown
Sensi Restaurant Amalfi Lunch
Rossellini’s Ravello Michelin star
La Taverna dei Briganti Amalfi
My #1 tip for eating in Positano is get away from the waterfront area. The restaurants down by the water tend to be overpriced for the quality. If you head up the main road (Viale Pasitea) you’ll find great restaurants away from the crowds. Many have views that are just as nice as the places on the waterfront, since the higher elevation gives a more panoramic view.
Next2 - Our fanciest and most expensive meal in Positano was also our best. From the amuse bouches at the beginning to the treats that came with the bill, Next2 felt like a Michelin-starred restaurant and delivered the food, service and ambiance you’d expect from one.
Saraceno D’Oro - We came to this casual trattoria twice during our stay in Positano. The pizza was fantastic – even better than we had in Naples.
Caffe Positano - sort of a touristy look (and name) so I wasn’t expecting all that much, but our meal here was one of the best we had all week. The gnocchi alla sorrentina (a specialty of the region) and the molten lava cake were both outstanding. Service was slow, even by laidback southern Italian standards, but it’s ok – you’re on the Amalfi Coast, you don’t need to rush.
Il Fornillo - one of the most affordable restaurants we saw in Positano, pizzas were great. A nice view of the coastline from their outdoor patio.
Gelato at Ristorante Covo dei Saraceni - Our favorite gelato in Positano was from the restaurant at the Covo dei Saraceni hotel on the waterfront (I don’t recommend the hotel restaurant in general, though – just the gelato). a rich flavor and creamy texture, right near the start of the shore path, so you can take your gelato for a scenic stroll.
Ravello – Cumpa Cosimo – Rustic Trattoria
Ravello – Mimi Pizzeria on the route to Villa cimbrone. View!
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