For as long as I can remember, Africa has appeared distant and unreachable, a place I could only experience while watching programs like Wild Kingdom or National Geographic episodes depicting the circle of life, or when the news featured stories about Apartheid, Nelson Mandela, the World Cup, or other significant events. After retiring and particularly since relocating to Portugal the possibility of actually traveling to and exploring Africa has become a reality. Since then we have included several African destinations in our travel plans, eager to discover and gain a deeper understanding of the continent.
For this trip, we focused on South Africa, traveling with two friends, Anna Marie & Glenn, from the USA, on the agenda; two cities, three different Safari Park experiences, and one of the world's seven natural wonders (as if the rest of the trip wasn't filled with natural wonders!). We started our two-week journey with a long travel day: three hours by train from Portimao to Lisbon, 16 hours by air from Lisbon to Dubai, and on to Cape Town, over 24 hours of travel, including transfers and layovers!
Once on the ground, we spent a few days enjoying Cape Town and the surrounding areas, A few hours north for a Safari at AM Safari Park near Kruger National Park, Farther north crossing over from South Africa into Zimbabwe for a few days at Victoria Falls, Then traveled west into Botswana and Chobe National Park for a few days at the Chobe Lodge, finally we traveled back to South Africa and Johannesburg for a short stay and our return flights home.
My apologies for the length of this post. There is so much beauty and visual interest that it was difficult to reduce the 2,300 images that I shot into the few posted here.
Cape Town
We were warned by many that Cape Town was a very dangerous place, including violent crime, kidnapping, and killings, with the caveat that you shouldn't walk alone, be out at night, and only travel in tourist areas. For the most part, we followed the advice but did take trips with a guide to places that felt perfectly fine. In the V&A Waterfront, we walked from the hotel to the shops and restaurants without any issues or concerns. There were police and security around and very visible. Like many countries, there is a struggle here with a lack of affordable housing, high unemployment (over 30%), and issues with drug abuse. While you can see evidence that the government is working hard to correct the problems, the sheer amount of people coming here to find jobs is overwhelming. Many housing projects are under construction; in the shanty towns, even though the homes are generally not up to code, the government provides clean water, public space cleaning, sanitation, and electricity to each home while addressing the need for housing. This is not a perfect scenario, but it is more than most countries do. I don't want to understate that crime exists, but your chances are pretty good if you take reasonable precautions and follow guidelines. The high crime levels can be attributed to the lack of jobs and income, with unemployment above 30% and the need to survive. I'm not trying to excuse it, but I assume survival at any cost eventually kicks in.
Back in the tourist area, our hotel, the one&only Cape Town, was located in the Cape Town Marina Victoria & Albert Waterfront area, which has plenty of shops, restaurants, and entertainment a tourist could wish for.
Our first-day tour included parts of the city and Bo-Kaap, an area formerly known as the Malay Quarter. This former racially segregated area is known for its brightly colored homes and cobblestoned streets and is the oldest surviving residential neighborhood in Cape Town. The homeowners' brightly colored facades are an expression of freedom after Apartheid, as all the houses were previously painted white.
Continuing our trek outside the city, our Cape tour headed west.
Out on the Cape of Good Hope the dividing point between the Atlantic and Indian oceans.
Boulders Beach and the African Penguin colony (Yes, there are Penguins in Africa). Formerly known as jackass penguins because of their distinctive braying, the once-endangered penguins have established this area as their home.
On our second day, we headed out of the city south toward Hermanus to Creation Winery, where we enjoyed the surrounding countryside and the excellent South African wines
The next stop is Stellenbosch, a cute small town in the Cape Town wine region about 45 minutes from Cape Town. Lunch at the Fat Butcher
AM Game Park
A two-hour flight from Cape Town north to Hoedspruit (Still in South Africa) for our next destination, a private Safari Park, a small lodge, and Villa. We were fortunate that our travel agent was able to book the Villa for us at the same rate as the two rooms at the lodge. To our surprise, the three-bedroom Villa was all ours, private with our game driver, tracker, butler, Chef, and housekeeper! We were very spoiled during our stay.
The AM Villa
The highlight of our time at the AM Vila was having our own tracker and guide. This smaller private reserve of 2,000 hectares (5,000 Acres) was only available to guests at the lodge or the Villa. We learned that we were the only guests in the entire Park during our stay, which answered our question about why we didn't see other jeeps there. Because the Park doesn't have elephants, the bush can be a bit denser than other places, making tracking animals much more difficult. Thankfully, we had Gustaf and Bongani, who were excellent at their work and very entertaining, too...
Every day here we had an early morning game drive at 6:00am so that we could catch the nocturnal animals feeding before they sleep for the day, and the waking of the others as they begin their search for water and food. In the afternoon, another game drive included a cocktail and snack in the bush at sunset. The first night, we stopped adjacent to a family of Rhinos who were at their home for the night. Keeping a close eye on them as we were out of the jeep made for an eventful happy hour
We took a morning off to visit and support an Elephant rescue center, HERD (Hoedspruit Elephant Rehabilitation and Development). The elephants here are rescued and adopted from the wild, providing an environment to flourish. Arriving at sunrise, we were able to see the facility's open space and have a few up close moments with the HERD
On our last day, Gustaf and Bongani took us to another larger Private park nearby, The Manyeleti Game Reserve. With over 23,000 Hectares (56,000 Acres), the park was expansive and provided us with a very different environment. Mostly wide open spaces with a few trees and bush due to the large elephant population here made it easier to spot distant animals.
Victoria Falls
Our next stop was a two-hour flight north to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. We stayed at the Victoria Falls Hotel Hotel, A Classic old British hotel with a rich history. Very close to Vic Falls, with exceptional views of the bridge and the rising mist of the Falls. The only negative is the constant helicopter noise from overhead. Apparently, the hotel is directly under the route of the tourist helicopters running all day! A bit annoying at an otherwise peaceful hotel
A morning tour of Victoria Falls was about a five-minute drive from the hotel. It is one of the seven natural wonders of the world and a Unesco world heritage site. The falls are beautiful, although sometimes hard to see through the mist generated by the cascading water.
In the afternoon, we took a sunset boat cruise just above the falls on the Zambezi River, which forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Beautiful landscape and waters filled with Crocs and Hippos
Chobe Game Lodge / Chobe National Park
About an hour and a half ride from the falls to our next stop in Chobe National Park, Botswana, and the Chobe Game Lodge. Crossing the border by car from Zimbabwe to Botswana was an interesting experience, changing transport vehicles at the border, dipping all your shoes in some cleaning solution (which looked more like dirty water), and three separate stops to clear customs. Relatively painless in the end.
It's hard to pick a favorite between the two game parks/lodges, but Chobe has a slight advantage. The Park is certainly many times larger than the AM park, and I miss the intimacy of being the only guest there. The sheer size of Chobe (117,000 hectares/289,000 acres), the number and variety of animals, Water/Delta and land options, and being the only lodge in the Park provided a very different experience. Many of our game drives allowed us to track and find animals before the other jeeps entered the Park. There were many other jeeps filled with tourists like us roving around the Park and sometimes gathering at the same sighting, so we missed our last Park's Intimacy.
The Chobe Game Lodge was a nice but different experience from the AM Villa. Here 40 rooms in pods of 4 rooms each are spread over Mahogany tree lined grounds set around a central lodge with a pool, dining and cocktail bars. Guests are asked to have an escort to and from their room since the property is fenced for Elephants, only allowing all others to roam free. Our first night's dinner was out on the boardwalk that runs along the river.
Game drives were scheduled three times per day, by land at 6:00 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. and by boat at 11:00 a.m., keeping us very busy throughout the day. On our last day, we did a sunrise boat cruise before breakfast.
We were fortunate to have close encounters with incredible wildlife amid spectacular scenery. The images show how close we were to the animals in their environment but not disturbing their normal behavior (in most cases). There were many breathtaking moments: amazing gatherings at the waterhole, the privilege of seeing mothers and their cubs sharing intimate moments, and the curiosity of the young lions, hippos, elephants, zebra, and Baboon's. Not to mention the hundreds of Impalas (our guide called them the McDonalds of the bush, I thought due to the number of them and being the prey of choice, but it's only due to the black M pattern on their rear) Leopard, Water Buffalo, Kudu, Giraffes, a rare Sable sighting, Jackal, Crocks, and Birds.
Game drives by Land
Game drives by boat
Johannesburg
Our last stop brings us back to South Africa and Johannesburg. A short stay before flights home, but we managed to pack in a visit to the Apartheid Museum and Soweto for a glimpse of Jo Burg's past and present.
We spent the night at the DaVinci Hotel and Suites on Nelson Mandela Square in Santon, located in the financial center north of downtown Jo Burg. The Hotel is part of a huge mall and entertainment complex, Mandela Square.
We hired a guide to show us around Jo Burg before our evening flight departures. We took in the Apartheid Museum, a moving experience depicting life in Africa past and present, the strife, and the accomplishment made by the people's will to end segregation, led by a few strong-minded but level-headed individuals. Passing the FNB stadium where the World Cup was played, we headed into Soweto. A shanty town now interspersed with a few modern-built homes is still home to mainly poor black families. Soweto was central to the Apartheid movement and home to the Mandela House, a museum and Nelson Mandela's former home. Passing through, we had a glimpse into daily life, including a group of native performers from Botswana. The last stop was a nice lunch and celebration of Anna Marie's upcoming Birthday before heading to the Airport.
We are so blessed to be able to travel and enjoy such memorable sights, history, and experiences. For this trip the moments of awe were being able to enjoy a few moments with magnificent wild animals going about their business in the environment in which they thrive. We will definitely return to Africa to explore additional aspects of the culture, other game viewing experiences and more of the natural beauty this continent has to offer.
Our Itinerary and travel information
Africa 2024
Africa by Design Emergency Phone: +27 71 500 5786
May 25, Sat
T&M 13:00 Bolt/Uber to Portimao train station
T&M Train – Portimao 13:49, arr Tunes 14:27, Dep Tunes 14:44, to Lis Oriente Arr 17:56.
T&M 18:00 Transport to Airport via metro
T&M Outbound | Lisbon to Cape Town | Duration: 18 hr 35 min Emirates
T&M Depart LIS 21:15, Arr DXB 8:05 (next day 5/26)
May 26, Sun
Tony and Mary arrive CPT 16:50 EK770
Anna Marie and Glenn arrive CPT 15:20 UA 2222
Private transfers to the Hotel
All travelers on their own for the day
Overnight for 3 nights @ One& Only Cape Town, Five Star, Marina Table Mountain Room
May 27, Mon
Breakfast @ the Hotel
10:00 am Full Day Cape Peninsula Tour in Private Car - Viator
Lunch & Dinner on own; La Colombe Restaurant Constantia or Chef’s Warehouse Constantia
Overnight @ One& Only Cape Town
May 28, Tue
Breakfast @ the Hotel
8:00 am Full day Private tour
Winelands
Lunch @ the Fat Butcher
Wine tasting @ Creation wines
Overnight @ One& Only Cape Town
May 29, Wed
Breakfast @ the Hotel
Depart One&Only Hotel to the airport
8:00 am Private transfer to CPT airport
Flight to Hoedspruit CPT – HDS, Dep CPT 10:40, Arr HDS 13:10 #4Z 657
Shared transfer to AM Lodge, Private Villa
All Inclusive
Choice of Safari activities
May 30, Thu
Safari activities
Overnight @ AM Lodge, Private Villa
All Inclusive
May 31, Fri
Safari activities
Overnight @ AM Lodge, Private Villa
All Inclusive
June 1, Sat
Check out AM Lodge
7:00 am Private transfer from Lodge to airport
Flight to Victoria falls,
Shared transfer from Airport to Victoria Falls Hotel
Afternoon at leisure - activities to be determined
Overnight @ Victoria Falls Hotel BB, 2nights, 5 Stars, Breakfast Included, Classic Room
Lunch & Dinner on own
June 2, Sun
Breakfast @ the Hotel
8:30 am Guided tour of the falls
15:30 Sunset cruise
Lunch & Dinner on own
Overnight @ Victoria Falls Hotel
June 3, Mon
Breakfast @ the Hotel
Check out Victoria Falls Hotel
11:25 am Shared transfer to Chobe Game Lodge
Check-in Chobe Game Lodge, 2 nights, 5 stars, all-inclusive, Luxury Room
Lunch and afternoon safari.
Dinner at the lodge
Overnight @ Chobe Game Lodge
June 4, Tue
Early morning safari followed by breakfast at the lodge.
Lunch and Afternoon Safari
Dinner at the lodge
Overnight @ Chobe Game Lodge
June 5, Wed
Early morning safari followed by breakfast at the lodge.
Lunch and Afternoon Safari
Dinner at the lodge
Overnight @ Chobe Game Lodge
June 6, Thu
Early morning safari followed by breakfast at the lodge
(?? Time) Shared transfer to BBK airport
Flight to Johannesburg - Dep BBK Kasane 14:05. Arr JHB Tambo 15:55
Private transfer (Shared) to DaVinci Hotel
Lunch and Dinner on own
Overnight @ DiVinci Hotel
June 7, Fri
Breakfast @ Hotel
Day at leisure - activities to be determined
16:00 Private transfer (Shared) to JNB airport
M&T Depart JNB 19:10 EK 764 (Check in 15:40?)
AM Departs JNB 20:00 UA 187
June 8, Sat
T&M Depart DXB 7:25, Arr LIS 12:35
T&M 16:00 is transfer to Lisbon Orient from Airport via metro or Bolt
T&M Train – Lis Orient 17:23, arr Tunes 19:53, trans to Portimao 20:07, Arr Portimao 20:48.
T&M Bolt or Uber home
Food of Cape Town and S Africa
· The dessert Butterkuchen with clotted cream. If you find yourself in Stellenbosch (and even if you don’t, it really is worth the drive), don’t miss the opportunity to try the butterkuchen, topped with almonds, powdered sugar and cinnamon. A great menu suggestion is to pair this slice of heaven with any of the delectable Fanny Chanel artisan ice creams available at the in-house ice-cream bar. But, if you really love yourself, try the clotted cream! Get there early, because this favourite sells out fast!
· Biltong & droewors - Dry curing was a method used to preserve meat by the indigenous tribes of South Africa. Usually made from beef or game, such as springbok, biltong (a thinly sliced, air-dried meat) and droewors (an air-dried sausage) are traditionally eaten as snacks. The meat is cured in a mixture of vinegar, salt, sugar and spices such as coriander and pepper, then hung to dry. The finished product is prized by health enthusiasts for its high protein and low fat content. Nowadays, biltong and droewors producers often add flavourings such as chilli or garlic to the meat and use a variety of meats, such as ostrich and wild boar.
· Cape Malay curry - In the 17th century, the Dutch and French landed and settled in Cape Town, bringing slaves from Indonesia, India and Malaysia, along with their spices and traditional cooking methods. When combined with local produce, the aromatic spices such as cinnamon, saffron, turmeric and chilli created fragrant curries and stews, which are still popular in the area today.
· Malva pudding - A Dutch import, malva pudding is a sweet and sticky baked sponge pudding made with apricot jam and served smothered in a hot cream sauce. This is South Africa's answer to the British sticky toffee pudding, served in many restaurants but mainly baked at home for Sunday lunch.
· Chakalaka & pap - Chakalaka and pap are mainstays on every South African dinner table. Chakalaka is a vegetable dish made of onions, tomatoes, peppers, carrots, beans and spices, and is often served cold. Pap, meaning 'porridge', is similar to American grits and is a starchy dish made from white corn maize. Chakalaka and pap are often served together, along with braaied (barbecued) meat, breads, salad and stews.
· Braai/Shisa nyama - For a real taste of South Africa an authentic braai or shisa nyama ('burn the meat' in Zulu) is an eating experience not to be missed. Braais originated in the townships of Johannesburg, with butchers who set up barbecues in front of their shops at weekends to grill their meat and sell it on the street. Nowadays, local communities gather at braais at the weekends to share food. Pop along to soak up the vibrant atmosphere, listen to music and take your pick from the meat on offer, usually comprising of beef, chicken, pork, lamb and vors (sausages) – this is not an outing for vegetarians!
· Bunny chow - This street food of Durban has become popular across South Africa and is now starting to hit our food markets back in London. Hollowed out loaves of bread, stuffed with spicy curry were originally created by the immigrant Indian community in the Natal area of Durban and served to workers for lunch. Try chicken, pork or vegetarian varieties containing lentils and beans.
· Amarula Don Pedro - This cocktail-come-dessert uses South African Amarula, a cream liqueur made from the indigenous marula fruit, blended with ice cream. Find it in every bar or take a bottle of Amarula home from duty-free to make your own!
· Bobotie - Another dish thought to have been brought to South Africa by Asian settlers, bobotie is now the national dish of the country and cooked in many homes and restaurants. Minced meat is simmered with spices, usually curry powder, herbs and dried fruit, then topped with a mixture of egg and milk and baked until set.
· Melktert - Similar to the British custard tart or Portuguese pasteis de nata, melktert consists of a pastry case filled with milk, eggs and sugar, which is usually thickened with flour. The finished tart is traditionally dusted with cinnamon. A real South African comfort food, it is served as a dessert, and also available in many bakeries.
· Nandos Peri Peri Chicken
· Karoo lamb
· koesister or koe'sister - is a traditional Cape Malay pastry often described as a spicy dumpling with a cake-like texture, finished off with a sprinkling of coconut. Cape Malay koe'sisters are prepared from balls of dough including yeast and flavoured with cinnamon, aniseed, ginger, cardamom and dried tangerine skin powder, deep-frying in oil, allowing to cool, then cooking for a minute in boiling syrup and rolling in desiccated coconut.
· Meat pies
·
Restaurants – Cape Town
· Restaurant on the way to boulders (boulders 45 min from CT)
o In Noerdhook (below Chapmans peak) The Foodbarn
· if you go to Contantia (26 min from Hotel)
o Beau Constanta for wine and cold cuts/ if you can get a booking at their restaurant Chef’s Warehouse (there are a few around the Cape but this is apparently the best)
o La colombe restaurant if you can get a booking. (There are a few la Colombe restaurants) - we have been to the one in Franschoek
· Franschoek (58 min from CT)
o Babalonstoren is a really nice day out.
o Boschendal in Franschoek - one of the oldest wine estates
· Eat out top restaurants
· The potluck club in Woodstock (Woodstock 5 min from hotel). Sophisticated tapas served in a chic, buzzy locale with glass walls & views of Table Mountain.
o Woodstock is an edgy, evolving neighborhood where hipster cafes, veggie eateries and galleries occupy old factories covered with vivid murals. The renovated Old Biscuit Mill is home to cool design stores and hosts the weekly Neighbourgoods Market, with street food stalls, African handicrafts and designer fashion. On nearby streets, quirky stores sell vintage fashion, upcycled furniture and antiques.
· Cape Malay restaurants in Bo Kap
o Bokaap Kombuis - Located in the heart of Cape Town’s Bo-Kaap district, this bo-kaap restaurant shows cultural richness and culinary excellence. The allure? The indisputable authenticity of Cape Malay Cuisine is a reflection of the Bo-Kaap’s heritage, history, and inclusivity. Lunch Tuesday to Sunday 12 pm to 3 pm and dinner Tuesday to Saturday 6 pm to 10 pm.
o
· 3-STAR RESTAURANTS
o ARKESTE by Richard Carstens (Franschhoek)
o Chefs Warehouse Beau Constantia (Constantia, Cape Town)
o Dusk (Stellenbosch)
o FYN (City Bowl, Cape Town
o La Colombe (Constantia, Cape Town)
o La Petite Colombe (Franschhoek)
o Salsify at The Roundhouse (Camps Bay, Cape Town)
Wineries around Cape Town
· Bot river – near Creation wines (58 min from Stellenbosch)
o Stellenbosch (45 min from CT)
o Gabrielskloof winery
o Beaumont winery
o Luddite winery
o Creation (37 min from Bot)
· Toward the coast from Creation near Hermanus…
o Heemel and Aarde
o Bouchard Finlayson
· Stellenbosch (50 min from CT)
o Kanonkop (beyond Stellenbosch, 12 min)
o Meerlust (on the way to Stellenbosch, 30 min from CT)
· on the way to boulders (boulders 45 min from CT)
o Cape point vineyards is in Noordhoek
· If you go to Contantia (26 min from Hotel)
o Beau Constanta for wine and cold cuts/ if you can get a booking at their restaurant
· Franschoek (58 min from CT)
o Babalonstoren is a really nice day out.
o There is also a wine tram in that you can take which stops at different wine estates
o Boschendal in Franschoek - one of the oldest wine estates
Tipping
· General – RESTAURANTS/TAXI - At many restaurants, waitstaff are paid a minimum wage and rely on tips. Check your bill to see if the restaurant has already included a 10% or higher tip on the bill (this is sometimes standard for tables of a certain size). If not, make sure to leave a tip. If a sommelier has given excellent advice and enhanced the dining experience, you can consider dedicating a separate tip by clearly indicating it on the bill/check. Average tip: 10% is the absolute minimum, but 15% and up is more usual. Something to consider: Don’t penalize the waitstaff for food quality unless they do not handle the complaint well. This kind of complaint should be directed at management.
· HOTELS - At a hotel, there are many service staff who contribute to the quality of your stay. Porters take bags to your room, another team operates the kitchen, housekeepers take care of your room, and front desk staff may organise tours and bookings for you. Porters are usually tipped immediately, by hand, a small amount. Housekeeping staff are usually given tips either in an envelope or cash left in the room. A pooled tip is a convenient way to ensure all members of staff are reached. Average tip: R20–R500 (depending on length of stay and services received). Something to consider: If one staff member has gone out of their way to give good service, you can tip them personally.
· SAFARI STAFF - A game-viewing experience in South Africa is made all the more special by the guidance and service of staff members. The guides and rangers keep you safe on safari, point out the (often near-hidden) animals, and lead the experience out in the wild. The porters, housekeeping staff, and kitchen staff do everything else to make your stay exceptional. Assuming you’ve enjoyed your stay, a daily tip is not necessary. A pooled tip for the staff is a convenient way for you to reach the housekeeping, front of house, and general staff all at once. Average tip: Three-day safari at R100–R250 per couple per night. Something to consider: It’s generally accepted that you tip the ranger and tracker separately. At luxury lodges tips for your ranger and tracker should be R1000 and higher.
·
Role | Average Amount |
Transfer drivers | 10% of the total fare for longer drives |
R10/N$10 (±0.50 USD) or P10 (±0.70 USD) per bag | |
General lodge staff | R50/N$50 (±2.40 USD) or P50 (±3.40 USD) per guest per day (to be shared between the general staff) |
Safari guide | R150/N$150 (±7.30 USD) or P150 (±€10.30) per person per day for a full-day tour |
Ranger/Tracker | R100/N$100 (±4.80 USD) or P100 (±6.80 USD) per person per day |
Waitstaff | 10% of the total bill (if tip not included) or round up the total when at a bar |
Car guard | R5/N$5 (±0.25 USD) or P5 (±0.35 USD) per hour (if you’re not paying for parking already) |
Petrol attendant | R5/N$5 (±0.25 USD) or P5 (±0.35 USD) per visit to the petrol station |
Wellness professional | 10% of the total service charge |
Luggage for internal flights
· Checked Bags not to exceed 32 Kilos (70 lbs)
· 1 carry-on bag no larger than 56cmx36cmx23cm (22x14x9 inches), weighing less than 8 kg (17.6 lbs)
· 1 slim-line laptop bag size and thickness specifically designed to carry a laptop and charger
· Handbags are considered part of a ladies wardrobe and not as hand baggage
Travel/Packing tips
What should you bring on Safari?
Packing for a safari is quite different than packing for any other leisure holiday. While seasoned outdoor travelers won’t have too many issues adapting their packing list, everyone else needs a bit of guidance.
Here are some important things to note and add to your checklist:
quick dry, loose-fit clothing in natural colors
avoid white, black, blue colors for your clothing
sunglasses and hat plus good UV sunscreen
light footwear with ankle support
binoculars
camera (and lenses)
small pocket torch
waterproof day pack
antimalarial medication as advised by your doctor as Chobe is located in a high-risk malaria zone
insect repellent (containing at least 30% DEET)
long sleeve blouse or light jacket for the evenings
long trousers for the evenings to avoid mosquito bites
over the counter medication (such as ibuprofen, anti-diarrhea pills, and anti-histamines)