April 2024
With so many great places to see and visit so close to us, it's hard to choose between them or which ones to visit first. It seems like just when we check one trip off the list, a few more get added because we want to go back and experience more of what the area offers. This trip was certainly one of those that added more to the travel list.
We started in Marseille since it's an easy direct flight from Faro, two nights including a walking tour of Marseille, and a visit to nearby Aix-en-Provence. From there, we drove to Nice, stopping in Cassis and La Ciotat along the way. We were based out of Nice for a few days, touring the city and using the train to visit nearby Eze, Villefranche-sur-mer, Menton, and Monaco-Monte Carlo. On our last day, we had a late flight home, so we visited Antibes and Cannes on the drive from Nice back to the Marseille airport. A packed agenda, but some awesome places to see and a lot of walking through cobblestone streets.
This is a beautiful area at sea level and in the hills above. The farther east we went, the closer the snow-capped French/Italian Alps came into view. In Menton, I did a Sarah Palin-ish quote, "I can see Italy from here," as we were nearly at the Italian border.
The culture and the food here are very different than what you would experience in the north of France. The mix of resident immigrants from nearby Italy, Africa, Spain, and others has shaped this region into a diverse mix of people and cultures. The food is equally influenced by this cultural mix; rarely will you find rich sauces and traditional foie gras that are common in most of France, instead a heavy dose of Franco-Italian, Asian, Moroccan, Lebanese, and Spanish influences and fusions of traditional dishes on the menu. Mediterranean style better describes what you will find with abundant fresh fish, a wide variety of fresh produce from the region, and foods prepared simply with Olive oil outpacing the use of butter and cream. We missed having an extravagant pastry shop on every corner as we see in the north, but fortunately, they are still around with a bit of searching.
We're chose April for our trip, expecting fewer crowds. Some areas like Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, Nice, and Monaco were surprisingly busy considering the time of year, and the trains between Nice and Monaco were jam-packed. I can only imagine what visiting during the peak summer months must be like. No thanks!
Here are a few highlights and photos from our trip...
Our starting point: Marseille is a rugged city with a reputation for gritty (dirty) streets and rough neighborhoods. Recent efforts to improve this image have cleaned up the tourist areas and higher rent districts but there are still signs as you drive into the city or walk outside the tourist areas that there is much work to be done. We enjoyed the short stay here and the sights and neighborhoods we were able to experience, but we view Marseille as a must-see stop-over city deserving of only a brief stay. This part of the country has so much more to offer. For example, when researching things to do here, one of the top suggestions is visiting the Calanques National Park between Marseilles and Cassis. The massive limestone formations are spectacular, extending out into the sea and providing hiking and water-based activities.
We stayed in the center of Marseilles, in Vieux-Port (The Old Port), overlooking the harbor. Every morning, a few of the local fishermen brought their catch to sell at the makeshift stalls.
We booked a walking tour of the city, which turned out to be more of a hike than a tour. We walked up and down the hills and through the neighborhoods between sites/Monuments (31,000 steps for the day!). It was worth the effort as we visited iconic landmarks like the hilltop Notre-Dame de la Garde and explored historic districts, including Le Panier, the Old Port, and Corniche Kennedy.
The food we tried in Marseille was just above average. There was an abundance of Italian restaurants, and pasta/pizza was well-represented on almost every menu.
Aix-en-Provence is a beautiful university city about thirty minutes inland from Marseille. It offers stunning monuments, architecture, fountains, and quaint streets to explore, as well as abundant shopping and dining. The area is famous for its vineyards and expanse of lavender fields, which we didn't see on this trip.
Cassis, a classic small fishing village known for its picturesque harbor and scenic mountains, turned into a tourist mecca without spoiling too much of its charm.
La Ciotat is most famous for the fleet of jaw-dropping mega yachts being built or retrofitted adjacent to the old port area. When we arrived, we couldn't help but notice these behemoths either in dry dock or maneuvering in the harbor. One of them just coming into port, we discovered, was recently seized by the French government from a Russian oligarch. Other than that bit of entertainment, the small town and old port area are charming and worth exploring, home to the world's oldest operating cinema.
Nice was our base for the next few days. It's no wonder some of the world's top artists hung out in the area for inspiration. Our hotel, located within the former Palais de la Mediterranee, along the Promenade des Anglais, was a great central point for us to explore Nice, and it was a short walk to the train station to explore nearby. Across the street is the pebbled beach (Most beaches are small stones here, not sand), where many of the restaurants and beach concessions were beginning to set up for the upcoming summer rush. On our last morning, a small group of classic cars gathered in front of the hotel, waiting to take a wedding party on a coastal cruise for the day.
The Promenade des Anglais is across the street, and the historic Negresco Hotel is a few blocks away. Most of the beaches in this area consist of small stones, not sand.
Walking through the streets of Old Town Nice, the Place Massena, the Saturday Outdoor Market, and 7th-century Cathedral Sainte-Reparate de Nice.
The Train station at Nice Ville is our go-to spot for regional transport. As I mentioned earlier, the trains are very busy, similar to rush hour in Japan, with people squeezing into the train cars already filled to capacity with bodies and luggage. Be prepared to be aggressive when getting on board or waiting for the next train, which will be much the same. Returning from your destination can be much of the same unless you stay, enjoy a nice dinner, and take a later train. Just check the schedules and know when the last train departs to your destination.
Port Lympia Nice is an easy walk from the old town and a welcome break from the crowds. Locals set up an impromptu restaurant at the port, where a few fishermen sell their catch for the day and prepare plates for dining al fresco on any available surface portside.
Our food experiences in Nice were great. As we move closer to the border, Italian food still has a strong representation, but menus become more French Provincial. We also found A Latin American restaurant that made fantastic BBQ ribs and pretty good chicken tacos, a Columbian cafe for breakfast with deviled eggs diablo, a classic French restaurant with Risotto and Italian Spinatta, and, of course, a great classic Italian restaurant with wood-fired pizza, a Romaine and Chevre salad with a Nice bottle of Rhone wine. Just the kind of food fusion that we enjoy
Eze is a medieval village about thirty minutes by train from Nice with an additional 20+ minute bus or car ride up the steep slope to the town from the train station. Sitting at 400 meters above sea level provides outstanding views of the French Riviera. Explore the narrow streets filled with artisan shops and inspiring restaurants. Tour the Exotic Gardens, the small church of Notre Dame de L'assomption, and outside the medieval village, tour the famous perfume and soap factories. We had lunch in a small niche garden restaurant prepared and served by chef Jean Maro from his small residential/studio kitchen.
Villefranche-sur-Mer, just two train stops east of Nice, was founded in the early 14th century. It sits on a mountainside slope, and its idyllic narrow streets wander down to the waterfront. The seaside promenade is filled with restaurants, shops, a small boat harbor, the Fort du Mont Alban, and crystal clear Mediterranean seas.
Menton is the last French Riviera town before the border with Italy. Known for its relaxed atmosphere, enviable microclimate, pristine sand beaches, botanical gardens, shops and restaurants. The narrow streets of the old town give way to views of the picturesque hillside villas and the nearby Alps and make their way along the Promenade du Soleil to the harbor
While technically not French, Monaco remains one of the most popular spots along the French Riviera, and the second smallest country in the world is second only to Vatican City. With over 30% of its residents being millionaires, real estate prices reaching over 100,000 euros per square meter, and a reputation as a global hub of money laundering, it's no wonder the dripping display of wealth is present everywhere. Cars, homes, yachts, and designer labels are everywhere, making it somewhat uncomfortable for us commoners to enjoy the City/Country. It's a beautiful city, and we enjoyed the sights but were happy to move on.
The photos show that preparation is well underway for the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix race in late May. The fencing and closing off of streets and walkways made it very difficult to maneuver through the area. The Prince's Palace, located on a hilltop within the ramparts of Monaco City, was beautiful, along with the other monuments located there. The Yacht harbor is filled with opulent Mega Yachts, including the Monaco Yacht Club, which only allows Yachts larger than 28 Meters! The Monte Carlo Casino and the Opera House are spectacular examples of elegant Beaux-Arts architecture.
On our last day on the French Rivera, we headed west and stopped in the charming village of Antibes. Much quieter than its nearby rivals, Antibes is equally as impressive, with its old town enclosed by 16th-century ramparts, star-shaped Fort Carre, luxury Yacht Marina, sandy beaches, and nearby forested Cap d'Antibes peninsula with its grand villas.
Just a quick drive-through of Cannes along the waterfront Boulevard la Croisette. Cannes appears to be a rival of Monaco with its high-end shopping, palatial hotels, exotic cars, and annual star-studded Cannes film festival
Overall, it was a stunning trip to some of the most beautiful coastline and hillsides. We could have done without some of the haughty, dripping displays of wealth, but the rest of the journey was worth it. Menton, Cassis, Villefranche, Eze, Aix-en-Provence, and Antibes were by far the stars of the trip.
Our agenda for the Cote d'Azur
Cote d Azur – Marseilles to Monaco
Apr 2, Tue
Arr Marseille (MRS) 9:45pm
Overnight @ Marseille Grand Hotel Beauvau Marseille Vieux-Port-MGallery
Apr 3, Wed
Pick up RAC @ Hertz @Train Station
Morning tour of Marseilles w/get your guide
Walk around the Old Port of Marseille, see the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde and Palais Longchamp. Wander through Le Panier the old town of Marseilles, Canebiere biggest ave with prestigious buildings, stroll through La Corniche, it’s worth taking a boat trip to visit the 16th-century Château d’If, the picturesque fortress that inspired The Count of Monte Cristo.
Where to Eat: Oh Massalia , Le Hippe Chic Café , Le Relais Corse , Wood La Cantine Gourmande.
In the afternoon after exploring Marseilles drive to Aix-en-Provence
Drive to Aix-en-Provence (35 minutes)
Things to Do: Once in Aix-en Provence, get lost in the cute, tiny little streets. Make sure to check out Cours Mirabeau, Paroisse Cathédrale Saint Sauveur and Place d’Albertas.
Where to Eat: Weibel, BigBrod, Platanos, Les Deux Garçons brasserie in Aix-en-Provence; this used to be painter Paul Cézanne’s favourite hangout.
OPTION - Plateau de Valensole and the Lavender Fields
Among the best lavender fields in Provence are those in the Valensole Plateau. It’s here you’ll find endless stretches of fragrant rows peppered by stone huts and token trees.
Overnight @ Marseille Grand Hotel Beauvau Marseille Vieux-Port-MGallery
Apr 4, Thu
Depart Marseilles
Drive from Marseilles to Nice (2:15 direct)
Stop in Cassis
Stop in La Ciotat
Overnight @ Nice - Hyatt Regency Nice Palais de la Méditerranée
Apr 5, Fri
Day Trip to Villefranche-Sur-Mer & Eze from Nice - Train 15 min
Villefranche-Sur-Mer, one of the prettiest towns in France! Villefranche-Sur-Mer dates back to the 14th century and was the most significant maritime port along the Riviera. Today, the Villefranche Promenade is probably the liveliest area you’ll encounter in the village.
Things to Do: Make sue to walk down Rue Baron des Brès and head to the viewpoint on Boulevard Napolean III, the most instagrammable spots in Villefranche-Sur-Mer. Wander the old town, where most buildings are from the 12th or 13th century and have been beautifully preserved. All the houses are painted in rainbow colors with shutters, plants, and flowers to match.
Eze is a beautiful medieval town on a hill in-between Monaco and Nice. There are lots of cute streets to get lost in and an amazing view over the Mediterranean to admire. Make sure to check out the pastel colored church and exotic garden.
Things to Do: Visit the Fragonard Parfum Factory, take the time to walk around the old village viewing its ancient fountains, old stone houses, and amazing archways.
How to Get to Villefrance-Sur-Mer & Eze: Fastest way is via an Uber, however the SNCF train is also an affordable and easy option. Get to the train station 30 minutes before your train is expected to leave to get your tickets as the line to purchase tickets is typically long. When taking the train the trains plan on them being packed. Sometimes during busy season you will have to wait for several trains before boarding or just squeeze your way on.
Overnight @ Nice - Hyatt Regency Nice Palais de la Méditerranée
Apr 6, Sat
Day trip to Menton and Monaco. Menton from Nice – Train 35 min
Menton is a stunning harborside with views of the colorful houses and the 17th-century church of Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange.
Things to Do: Spend your first full day on the Cote d’Azur enjoying Menton’s iconic Plage des Sablettes. The beautiful Azure water laps in front of colorful orange and yellow houses, it’s the perfect Instagram spot!
Monaco – Train
Monaco, a sovereign city-state, country, and microstate on the French Riviera. The tiny city-state is famous for its lavish wealth, casinos, and glamorous events such as the Monaco Yacht Show and the Monaco Grand Prix.
Things to Do: Visit Casino Monte-Carlo, head up to Avenue de la Porte Neuve for the best view of Monaco and the surrounding mountains, check out the unique architecture of the Cathedral de Monaco, enjoy the view of Port de Fontvieille from the ‘Vue Panoramique sur Monaco – Fontvielle’.
Highlights of Monaco include exploring the Rocher de Monaco. This is where you’ll find historical highlights such as Place du Palais, which is the official residence of the Prince of Monaco.
Where to Eat: Mozza, Tip Top, Cafe de Paris Monte-Carlo
Overnight @ Nice - Hyatt Regency Nice Palais de la Méditerranée
Apr 7, Sun
Spend the day in Nice
Nice There is more to Nice than the world-famous shoreline. Nice is a city filled with history, culture, and art – enough to keep you occupied for days. Nice is the perfect city to also position yourself for day trips to smaller towns.
Things to Do: Stroll around Old Nice, walk along the Promenade des Anglais and chill on the beach, stop by the famous Le Negresco for a cup of coffee. Follow the staircase right next to the Promenade or take the lift leading all the way up to Castle Hill. The views are truly spectacular, and relax at a beach club.
If you have a few hours to spare, visit the impressive Marc Chagall and Matisse museums, dedicated to the work of the respective painters.
Overnight @ Nice - Hyatt Regency Nice Palais de la Méditerranée
Apr 8, Mon
Return drive to Marseilles Airport for 9:15pm flight (2:08 Drive time direct)
Return RAC to Hertz @ Airport
Stops along the return route
Antibes
Cannes, a resort town on the French Riviera, is famed for its international film festival. Its Boulevard de la Croisette, curving along the coast, is lined with sandy beaches, upmarket boutiques and palatial hotels like the InterContinental Carlton Cannes hotel that served as the main set for Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 film To Catch a Thief, starring Grace Kelly and Cary Grant.
Le Suquet, the city’s quaint old quarter, is where you can explore the other side of Cannes – the one with the colourful local shops and little cafés, the sweet-smelling bakeries and the paved alleyways hosting cute bistros.
Things to Do: Visit La Croisette, one of the most iconic streets in France, People watch in Le Vieux Port, Stroll along Rue d’Antibes and do some luxury shopping and hang out at the beach.
Where to Eat: Bella Storia, Gelato Junkie
Saint Tropez
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