November 2024.
On our trek to explore more of Europe, we took a short late fall trip to Copenhagen. Some of our Fall/Winter travels are dictated by the airlines that serve the Faro Airport. Many have reduced direct route service outside the peak summer travel months. Some destinations are not served at all, while others have reduced schedules to one or two flights per week. We can always connect through other airports or fly out of Lisbon or Sevilla, which can add significant time and hassle to shorter trips. So, we choose to schedule our travels during this time of year to those areas served directly, especially for shorter trips. For example, flights from Faro to Copenhagen only happen on Thursday or Monday. So, excluding travel days, we chose to spend three full days in Copenhagen on our first trip there. Since it's so close, we can always go back and explore more.
Check out recommendations for your trip at the end of this post.
A short 3:50 flight from Faro to Copenhagen, delayed at departure, got us into Copenhagen and our hotel around 2:00 in the morning. It was much colder than we are used to in the Algarve, about 0-10 celsius during our stay, a little light snow on day one, sun and clouds on day two, and morning rain on day three. We had to dig deep into our wardrobe to find layers, jackets, gloves, etc., to keep us warm. It was nice to experience the change in weather, although we were glad to get back to the 20-degree Celsius weather at home.
We enjoyed Copenhagen, its great people, culture, and food. The history, sites, and monuments were nice but centered mostly around the Royal Family and their wealth. We've become a bit jaded by the history of wealth and excess displayed by the churches and those who held/hold power. On the next trip, we would also add some day trips to explore the surrounding areas in Norway and Sweden.
We stayed at the Grand Joanne Hotel near the heart of the city, within 5 minutes walking distance to Tivoli Gardens, the Train station, and Metro. 20-30-minute walk to Nyhavn, Palaces, and Strøget, but certainly within reach. The Metro is a convenient option to get you closer to the center. The hotel is modern and clean, and the staff was friendly and helpful. Our room has no closet, only a small rack and shelf—part of the design, I presume, but a little inconvenient for placing suitcases and hanging clothes.
On our first morning, we took a walking tour of the city. We like to do these tours on the first day to get an overview of the area, sights, and recommendations from the guide. This one, led by a local guide, was the "Grand Tour of Copenhagen" to learn about Copenhagen's history, culture, and architecture through Copenhagen Free Walking Tours. Starting on the steps of Rådhuspladsen (City Hall square), the tour was about 3 hours. We like the "Free Tour" concept, which is not free, but you are asked to pay what you feel is fair at the end of the tour.
Tivoli Gardens is one of the must-see destinations in Copenhagen. Although our short trip didn't allow us to visit, we could peek inside during the few times we walked by.
This famous amusement park, which opened in 1843, combines manicured gardens and whimsical roller coasters in central Copenhagen. It has been attracting visitors since it opened in 1843, making it the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world. At night, thousands of twinkling lights give it a fairytale feel that inspired Local writer Hans Christian Andersen and Mr. Disney himself. The park is home to Rutschebanen, one of the world's oldest operating wooden roller coasters, several restaurants, and a food hall.
Christiansborg Palace, Once the home to kings and queens, now hosts various Royal Family functions and events. The Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State occupy most buildings today. You can tour a few of the spaces here: the gilded Royal Reception Rooms, the Tower, and the Oval Throne Room, where The Royal Couple receives foreign ambassadors to Denmark. The Royal Stables are housed here, and you can frequently observe the horses exercising in the large circle in front of the Palace.
Amalienborg Palace, Home to the Royals when they are in town, consists of four separate palaces. The King, his Queen, and four Children occupy one of the four palaces, while his Mother, the abdicated Queen, occasionally occupies another. You can tell when they are in residence by the flag on top of each building; if the flag is up, the royals are there. The third Palace is for public tours, the annual royal New Year's reception and banquet, and houses the Amalienborg Museum. The fourth Palace is a guest residence for Prince Joachim and his family, as well as Princess Benedikte when they visit.
It was fun to watch the changing of the guard's ceremony.
Nyhavn is a must-see when visiting Copenhagen, and it is probably the image everyone has of Copenhagen. Beautiful and inviting, but be prepared for large crowds and "tourist quality" shops and restaurants.
It's hard to walk through central Copenhagen without crossing the busy pedestrian shopping streets of Strøget and others. At times, it is very crowded with tourists and locals strolling through the area and enjoying the shops and Christmas decor
Several Christmas Markets appear throughout the city for the holidays. They are much smaller than others in Europe but are centrally located in town squares and frequented by locals and tourists alike. You'll find mostly locally made crafts and Christmas decor, Food stalls, and Glogg (Danish mulled wine), the holiday beverage that you'll find in every market, restaurant, and bar, each proclaiming that their version is the best.
Skt. Peders Bageri has some of the best Danish buns and almond croissants around, and it's worth the short wait in line to get yours.
An afternoon Canal boat tour with Hey Captain on a small boat touring the main canals. We opted for the shorter tour of one hour and were glad we did, as it was freezing out on the water. Nice to see the sights from this angle, but maybe when it is warmer
Random scenes around Copenhagen.
Several ice rinks sprout up around the city during winter and are enjoyed by the locals.
We found a book on Hygge ("hooga"), the word used by the Danish to capture a way of life. As challenging to explain as it is to pronounce, Hygge is basically about taking time away from the daily rush to be together with people you care about - or even by yourself - to relax and enjoy life's quieter pleasures.
Torvehallerne: Just about every large European city has a similar market/food hall, but this one is well done and worth a visit. It is a great place to go if you are hungry, need fresh produce, or are looking for local flavor. A wide variety of foods can be found, from Pastries to international and local cuisine: local beer, fresh juices, and wines from around the world. We chose Il Mattarello for Pasta (Just OK) and Hija de Sanchez for the Tacos and handmade tortillas (Very Good).
One Danish specialty you'll find in restaurants and shops all over town is Smørrebrød (smuhr-broht). Lined up in café windows or served in specialty restaurants, they are traditionally piled high with pickled herring, spoonfuls of sharp horseradish cream, or mounds of fresh shrimp. These days, you'll find just about any creative combination on a slice of bread no bigger than a deck of cards; Danes heap everything from rivers of caper-spiked mayonnaise to pyramids of meatballs.
Rosenborg Castle is the best "Palace" to tour in the city. The ornate rooms and their collections are beautiful. You can imagine a time when life in the Castle was lively and glamorous. Even during our winter visit, the gardens were pleasant and a joy to walk through. You should see the Crown Jewels located in the basement. Incredible ornate weapons, Ornate jewels, and crowns filled with treasure and history. Don't miss the "Crotch Wetting Chair" " the set of Pistols given by Abraham Lincoln, and the "Rose," an ornate walnut cupboard that contains a mechanical orchestra that cost as much as a palace when made. You can hear samples of the music it plays on the online guide app.
We ate at a few recommended restaurants during our stay;
POPL Burger Overrated and overpriced is about the best way to describe it. We expected more from this place due to the touted relationship with Restaurant Noma (World's Best Restaurant). We should have known better, as it appears to be a ploy to overcharge. Although the food was good (Not great), the price was exorbitant for two people: broth, burgers, fries, an adult beverage, and a few pickled vegetables. The price was nearly criminal for ordinary food! It cost us the equivalent of about three restaurant dinners for two in Portugal! I understand if it was exceptional over the top, as is Noma, but this is far from that.
Marv & Ben, We dined here based on a Michelin Bib Gourmande recommendation. The atmosphere was quaint and cozy; the service was attentive and friendly. We chose the "Fast Four" pre-fix menu with wine pairing and felt it was a great value for the quality and quantity of food and wine. The raw scallops, potato & mackerel, and onglet were flavorful, well prepared, and presented. The plum dish was reaching too far in an attempt at gastronomic creativity. The value for the price was fair and worthy of a Michelin star.
