December 2024.
On our quest to experience more of Europe, we head to the land of the Basques. The Basque region, located at the corner of two countries, sits on the Bay of Biscay near the Atlantic coast and stretches inland to the Pyrenees mountains. The area stretches about 100 miles from Bayonne, France, to Bilbao, Spain.
The ancient, free-spirited land of the Basques is famous for its beaches, gastronomy, architecture…and for its feisty, industrious natives. It's also simply beautiful: Bright white chalet-style homes with deep-red and green shutters scatter across lush, rolling hills; the Pyrenees Mountains soar high above the Atlantic; and surfers and fishermen share the seas. While the French side of this area seems French first and Basque second, the Spanish side is without a doubt Basque first! The Spanish side has long fought for their autonomy from any connection to Spain or France, while the French side is proud of their Basque heritage. They are perfectly fine with the way things are, being French. The region has its unique caricature; you'll find a glorious mix of Basque, Spanish, and French influences in culture and cuisine. Top that off with its beautiful rolling countryside and a gorgeous coastline.
As with most popular summer destinations, our airport in Faro operates a reduced/limited schedule of flights during the winter months, limiting our options for travel from Faro. We usually resort to traveling up to Lisbon to access more direct flights with reasonable schedules. Some of our friends have discovered that Sevilla airport in Spain has a host of flights available year-round, making it an excellent option for winter travel. For this trip, we opted to fly from Sevilla, which is about the same distance as Lisbon but a much easier airport to manage for shorter flights throughout Europe and the region. From Sevilla, Bilbao in the North of Spain is a 1.5-hour flight. From there, we rented a car for the rest of the journey through the Basque region, with overnight stops in Bilbao, San Sebastian, and Biarritz.
When traveling in the winter, you've got to be ready for the weather. The first few days were dry with some sun and a little wind; the last 5 days were filled with showers, some heavy with strong wind, especially in Biarritz and Bayonne. It's still great to see these areas with fewer crowds for the most part. Dealing with weather requires that you prepare differently for it and occasionally ducking into monuments, shops, and restaurants when it gets a little difficult to handle.
Check out recommendations for your trip at the end of this post.
Bilbao
The Hotel Palacio Arriluce in Getxo, just outside of Bilbao, was our home for the first two days of the trip. It is located along the coast and embarcadero, minutes from the vibrant old center of Bilbao. A beautifully renovated former private home situated in an upscale neighborhood that felt more residential and comfortable than a stay in the city.
The area around the hotel is the city of Getxo, a quaint upscale neighborhood with several shops, restaurants, and Pintxos bars, as well as fantastic views of the river and the sea.
Our first night and the following day were spent walking around Bilbao through the Casco Viejo (Medieval Old Town) and Plaza Nueva areas. It doesn't feel like a typical European tourist destination, but it is more like a place where people live their everyday lives. Besides the city's fantastic architecture and nearby countryside beauty, there are few high-value tourist monuments to draw visiting crowds. There is, of course, the modern icon of the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim museum, but other than that, visiting Bilbao is about wandering through the differing quarters of the city, admiring the fantastic architecture, soaking up the local culture, local shops, and, of course, the Pintxos and gourmet cuisine that the region is well known for. We enjoyed Bilbao for these reasons.
The La Ribera Market is one of the largest covered markets in Europe. It was built in 1929 and is housed in a great building near the river. The floors of the vast hall are flooded with light from the large stained-glass windows. Here, you will find residents seeking out their favorite stall for fresh ingredients for meals at home or visiting one of the bars/restaurants for a meal or snack.
We enjoyed lunch at the Michelin star Etxanobe in Bilbao. I have been searching for good Scallops, which are not readily available where we live in the Algarve. The good news is they are everywhere in the Basque region, thanks to the cooler waters of the north. We shared the grilled local scallops, Chicken Cannelloni, Halibut, and grilled asparagus. The meal was well prepared and presented, the service was attentive and prompt, and the restaurant was inviting and comfortable.
One of the major attractions in Bilbao is the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim museum. Nearby, see Maman (Mama Spider), made of bronze, marble, and stainless steel, and Puppy, with its ever-changing coat made up of a garden of greenery and flowers.
Getaria
We stumbled upon this historic fishing village when we visited the area several years ago. Back then, we were lucky to find El Astillero, a traditional restaurant located in the harbor. Here, the family-run casual restaurant serves some of the best fish, fresh from the boats just a few feet from their door, and is a fine example of great meals you will find here.
Getaria, the birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano, the sailor who completed the first circumnavigation of the Earth in 1522, maintains its maritime soul, which has been kept alive for more than five centuries. The narrow streets of the medieval old quarter lead down to the port, lined with restaurant grills roasting the fresh catch from the harbor.
Although we loved El Astillero on our first visit to Getaria, we wanted to try something new on this trip. Our first choice for lunch was the famed restaurant Elkano, but they were closed for their annual holiday, so we chose Restaurant Kaia-Kaipe. The dining room was very nice, with a large window that provided harbor views from just about any table. The food and service were good but a little pricey, primarily due to the Michelin sign at the door, I presume.
San Sebastian
In San Sebastian, we stayed at the Hotel Maria Cristina. A fantastic location along the river and at the edge of the old town is an excellent base from which to explore San Sebastian on foot. One of the best hotels in San Sebastian is made more affordable during the winter off-season.
Opened in 1912, the hotel played a part in San Sebastian's growing popularity. It became a favorite destination for royalty and aristocrats who came to enjoy the sunshine and newly recognized therapeutic properties of sea bathing. In 1936, the hotel was briefly occupied by troops and a stronghold during two days of fighting. You can still see bullet holes in the façade.
San Sebastian is famous for its high-quality Pintxos bars (Basque for Tapas), most of which offer small plates of gourmet cold Pintxos on display and a menu for freshly prepared hot items. We opted for a private guided Pintxos tour on our first night to ensure we hit the best places. Colm, our guide, didn't disappoint as he covered some of the best options that night. Since the first night's tour focused on Pintxos in Old Town, for our last night, we headed across the river to explore the offerings in the neighborhood of Gros. I highly recommend exploring this neighborhood, which is off the usual tourist path and a great beach alternative in summer. If traveling here, there is a fantastic app called Pintxos, a collaboration of Michelin chefs who each year list their favorite Pintxos and the Bar they are served in. You can see the framed certificate on the wall of the Bar below stating which Pintxos the chefs selected.
Our favorite pastry, tortilla, and coffee stop at Mundukuona/La Tortilla del Zabaleta Plaza near the hotel. They are famous for their "Tortilla," a Spanish favorite made of a base of potato and egg
Pretty good Mexican street food for lunch @ San Remo
Sights from around San Sebastian. It's a very walkable city, and we suggest doing just that. Get out and wander around, not just the streets of the old town but beyond.
